PARIS — The makeup look for Anthony Vaccarello’s fall 2014 show on Tuesday took inspiration from his clothes.
“Inside the collection there are a couple of outfits that are black with a red lacquer kind of ruffle, and it reminded me of René Gruau,” said Tom Pecheux, referring to the French illustrator. He added Vaccarello’s silhouettes were also reminiscent of Tony Viramontes, the American illustrator, from the Eighties.
“But it’s very much a girl of today,” said Pecheux, who was working with products from Estée Lauder.
Riffing on the graphic eye he created with Vaccarello for his show last season, done with small stencils, Pecheux used dental floss dipped in glossy red lipstick and black eyeliner to create lines on models’ eyelids and below their peepers.
“I wanted it to be very graphic, very arty,” said Pecheux. “It’s never the same,” he added of the result. “I didn’t want perfection.”
Black pencil was drawn between models’ eyelashes, which were curled, while brows were slightly defined. Lips were dabbed in the middle with Rebellious Rose lipstick and then everywhere else with the Intense Nude hue. On skin, Pecheux applied Revitalizing Supreme Global Anti-Aging Crème.
The outer curve of models’ fingernails got a trace of Pure Color Envy Nail Lacquer in Red Ego — a new shade — used in the style crafted with Christina Conrad, also working with Lauder.
“The inspiration is still very much an Anthony Vaccarello girl,” continued hairstylist Anthony Turner, who was using L’Oréal Professionnel products. “Each season we kind of do a version of the same girl — a very sexy, cool, aspirational woman. It’s always about a woman with confidence.”
He used Tecni.Art Pli on models’ damp hair, which was finger-dried.
“I’m just pressing a bend into the hair, so it doesn’t feel too sad,” said Turner. “It’s not about grungy, lank, nothing hair. It’s still got a little bit of movement in it.”
He next created a low side part to give a bit of masculinity.
“I always like playing with that kind of skate-boarder hair; it’s almost like a skater boy, in a sense,” said Turner, who then applied Tecni.Art’s Next Day Hair product on dry tresses that was flat and tucked behind ears.