At Derek Lam, Tom Pecheux’s inspiration was “a university student with a focus on becoming powerful — but she has a twisted mind.”
Pecheux, creative makeup director for Estée Lauder, started off by using Lauder’s new Invisible Fluid Makeup, out next month. “It’s very sheer and just perfects the skin — it looks like they’re wearing nothing on the face,” he said. Where necessary, he also used Double Wear Stay-in-Place Flawless Wear Concealer, with Lucidity Translucent Loose Powder to set it. He added Pure Color Blush in Brazen Bronze on the cheekbones with Alluring Rose to contour the cheeks; both shades launch in March. After adding Pure Color Crystal Lipstick to the lips, Pecheux turned his attention to the eyes. He used Lauder’s new Sumptuous Two Tone Eye-Opening Mascara in Bold Black/ Rich Brown, with black on the top lashes for lift and brown on the lower lashes for definition. The mascara launches in April. Next, he used black and copper shades from Pure Color EyeShadow Palette and Pure Color EyeShadow in Sugar Cube to create a burgundy smoky eye. “It’s charming, not sexy,” he said.
Jin Soon Choi, also working for Estée Lauder at the show, used Pure Color Nail Lacquer in Nude Attitude on nails for a polished finish.
Orlando Pita, working with Phyto and T3 at the show, created two looks, both Sixties inspired: an updo for daytime and a looser style for evening. “She’s a college schoolgirl who is a little bit naughty and breaking the rules,” said Pita. He began by applying Phyto Intense Volume Mousse and blow-drying the hair with a T3 Evolution LongLife hairdryer, then curled hair with a T3 SinglePass Whirl curling iron. Next, he sprayed Phyto Workable Holding Spray throughout hair and on a comb and backcombed the hair. He created a deep side part, pulling hair to the back of the head and pulling it into a ponytail at the nape for the evening look and tucking under and pinning for the daytime look.