Africa and S&M inspired the tightly controlled ponytails Eugene Souleiman created at Donna Karan’s show. “There is no softness here at all,” said Souleiman, working with Wella at the show. “It’s about extreme straight, high gloss and shine. It looks almost synthetic — I wanted it to look hyper-real.”
Souleiman first sectioned the hair over the ear — “It controls hair’s bulk and makes a very tight ponytail,” he said — pulled it into a ponytail to which he added ponytail hairpieces longer than the model’s length and saturated the hair with hair spray. “You want it wet, like a gel,” he said. “It gives a very sleek look, and as a bonus, as the hair dries, it gets even tighter.” Once the hair was dry, he used clippers to create a straight-across line at the bottom of the hairpiece, resulting in a graphic, ruler-straight finish at the ponytail’s end. Souleiman wrapped the base of the ponytail with black mesh fabric bands secured with Velcro (“as an added bonus, that helps keep the hair further away from the clothes,” he said), then painted clear silicone onto the top and sides of the head.
Charlotte Tilbury, for MAC Cosmetics, was channeling Yasmin Le Bon and the Eighties for the models. “It’s very sexy and Eighties, with a very strong emphasis on the brow,” said Tilbury. She began the look by applying foundation on both the face and the chest (“to warm things up,” she explained) then used concealer to spot-correct. Next, she shaped brows to incorporate a bit of a point in the arch using Fling eyebrow pencil and brushing upward. She skipped mascara, using her fingers to apply Luna Cream Colour Base and adding a few freckles with Hodgepodge pencil. Sepia Cream Colour Base was lightly applied to the cheekbone to contour and Luna on the plane of the cheekbone. Bittersweet Pro Longwear lip pencil — a chocolate shade — was used to line the lips, which were then filled in with a mix of Most Mocha and Full Chocolate lip colors, using a brush for application.
Deborah Lippman used Just Walk Away Renee, a chocolate cherry shade she created with Renée Zellweger, to polish fingers and toes.