Marc Jacobs’ vision for beauty at his show this season? Tonality, in hair, makeup and nails.
François Nars interpreted that vision by prepping skin with NarsSkin Luminous Moisture Cream, Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturizer, Radiant Creamy Concealer and Loose Powder, all by Nars. Next, he mixed together three Nars blushes — Zen, Douceur and Sex Appeal — and applied them to the cheekbones for a bit of definition. For the eyes, he chose taupes and beiges, along with a hint of gray on the lid and pale chocolate in the crease of the eye — Andromeda Dual-Intensity Eyeshadow, which will be released this summer; the sheer white shimmer side of Duo Eyeshadow in Pandora, and the sugared cocoa side of Duo Eyeshadow in Kalahari, topping with Single Eyeshadow in Sophia. “We wanted to create the illusion of big, wide eyes,” he said. For lips, Nars chose beige Striptease Lip Gloss topped with the barest hint of metallic silver Dione Dual-Intensity Eyeshadow for shimmer. “It’s really an interpretation of the fabrics in Marc’s collection this season,” Nars noted. He skipped mascara: “I wanted the models to look like Greek statues, with no lashes and brows at all,” he explained.
“Everything about the look, from head to toe, is tonal,” said Guido Palau, working with Redken at the show. He created the look with wigs in five shade variations. “We wanted them to look like you almost couldn’t tell what shade they were — is it pink, is it brown, is it blonde,” said Palau. “They’re almost old-lady colors. We bleached out the wigs, so they don’t really pop. The look in the end is like an illustration come to life. Everything matches.” After the wigs were dyed, he blew each out straight with Redken’s Satinwear blow-drying lotion, then using a Redken styling spray and Redken hair spray to finish. The geometric cut was inspired by Jessica Lange, he noted.
“It’s really seasonless,” he said. He added a wide headband at the end.
Marian Newman, working with Marc Jacobs Beauty at the show, used five different tones of nude, hand-mixed with Jacobs the day before the show. Nails were kept short and filed into a rounded shape. “The look is hyper-real, hyper-perfect — expensive,” said Newman. “And very tonal.”