Marc Jacobs’ decision to show his collection with yellow lighting brought new meaning to the description “black and white” for the beauty look.
François Nars noted that he and longtime friend Jacobs share a fondness for the Sixties and Seventies. “We often reference that period, but we do it our own way — it’s never a copy,” said Nars. Marianne Faithfull and Joan Jett were both top of mind as he crafted the look, which had to look good both in yellow light — which turns everything black and white — and normal light. After using Nars Radiant Cream Compact Foundation and concealer on the face, Nars devised a smoky eye with Duo Eyeshadow in Pandora, Matte Eyeshadow in Bengali, Eyeliner Pencil in Black Moon and Black Valley Eye Paint. He used Larger Than Life Long-Wear Eyeliner in Santa Monica Blvd. and Larger Than Life Volumizing Mascara, finishing with an application of white eyeliner inside the bottom eyelid. Cheeks got a hint of blush in Zen or Nico, depending on skin tone, to contour. Lips were finished with Triple X Lip Gloss. Immediately before the girls hit the runway, Nars used his fingers to mess up the eyes a bit. “Marc’s girls always look decadent,” said Nars. “They’re the cool girls.”
Guido Palau, working with Redken, fashioned Joan Jett-style wigs with a razor, customizing the look for each girl.
Elisa Ferri did nails in Jezebel, the first product to be shown in the Marc Jacobs Cosmetics collection launching in September at Sephora. “Marc wanted high shine — his inspiration was a coffee table he has in his apartment which has 30 coats of lacquer,” said Ferri. “This is a very pigment-heavy formula which gives a completely opaque deep red in one coat.”