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Backstage at the Monique Lhuillier show Monday, the beauty look took its cues from iconic photographers. Hairstylist Odile Gilbert, working with Kérastase, looked to Richard Avedon to create the structural hairstyle.

She began by working volumizing mousse into the hair and then blow-drying hair straight. She then gathered the hair in a high ponytail at the top of the head. Next, she began “using hair like a ribbon” to create cascading but carefully controlled locks, which were then pinned into place. The look was finished with a black bow.

For the face, makeup artist Val Garland for MAC Cosmetics took inspiration from Irving Penn with a dark, sexy eye. Garland said of the eyes, “It’s a plum, city eye” inspired by a glamorous debutante. Using an upcoming cream shadow quad from MAC, Garland swept a plum shade across the eye socket and worked a bit under the lower lash line (in the middle only). She used black pencil to draw out the outer corners of the eye, and white pencil on the inside of the eye.

Lashes were free of mascara.

“I wanted the girls to look naughty and sexy,” she said. For the base, she used a wash of foundation, and applied a skin-colored cream blush called Cheek and accented the look with cream contour underneath. Lips were rosy “as if the girls had been kissing all night” with a touch of soft pink gloss. On nails, CND created a reverse French manicure of sorts with the Silver Chrome shade topped with Dessert Suede and dark amethyst shade applied to the tips of the nail.

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