“She’s strong, hard, urban and fast paced,” said Eugene Souleiman, lead hairstylist for Wella, about the girl behind the look at Narciso Rodriguez’s fall showing. “It’s dirty hair, a real departure from the classic Narciso girl.”
Souleiman began the deconstructed style by spraying Ocean Spritz throughout strands, paying particular attention to the roots. Using only his fingers to pull hair back into a ponytail, Souleiman then folded it into itself to create a “messy” knot. “We are actually knotting the hair, pulling a piece through to tighten it, then leaving it as is,” said Souleiman, who rubbed Texture Touch into his hands and slicked it onto the updo for a “raw” feel. A few spritzes of Shimmer Delight finished the look, infusing shine and slickness.
Faces, created by Shiseido lead makeup artist Dick Page, were equally edgy.
“The look for Narciso had this very ‘easy urban-dirty’ feel to it,” said Page, who used a fluffy eye shadow brush to apply Shimmering Cream Eye Color in Purple Dawn and Caviar, which, when blended, created a rich violet hue. Page also applied Benefiance Full Correction Lip Treatment on the eyes to create a feeling of wetness.
Page used a small amount of foundation, only where needed, and used no powders or blush, letting the models’ skin show through. A blend of Shiseido Shimmer Rouge Lipstick in a sandy shade, Alabaster, and a dab of concealer were used to “diffuse” and “shape” the lip. Brows were groomed and no liner or mascara was used.
“I like using the word ‘scruffiness’ to describe it,” said Page. “It was all about the cool girls.”
Nails, done by Deborah Lippmann, featured a custom-blended slate gray polish, which Lippmann revealed will join her permanent designer collaboration line.
“Narciso wanted strength on the nail,” said Lippmann, who added that the shade will be named by the designer himself.