“Gypsy grunge” was the main theme backstage at Nicole Miller this season.
Uzo, who keyed makeup for Nars, created a classic smoky eye to give models an unapologetic, downtown vibe. “It’s that downtown girl that’s gone out for the evening,” she said backstage. “She’s partied hard and she’s gone to bed with her makeup on, but she wakes up and she looks amazing.” The makeup started off by giving the skin a polished look with Nars Skin Aqua Gel Luminous Oil-Free Moisturizer. Uzo then worked on the eyes using Duo Eyeshadow in Pandora and Underworld shades to create the dark gray smoky eye. The dramatic eye was emphasized with the brand’s Velvet Shadow Stick in Flibuste and Velvet Eyeliner in Black Moon. On the lips, Uzo used the new Power Matte Lip Pigment in Warm Leather at the center of the lips to create a stained, lived-in look.
An unfinished look was given to the hair with slight waves and unraveling braids styled throughout. “[The collection] has this mysticism element to it and we’ve got a little bit of a gypsy feel, so we’re mixing in some brands with textured hair,” said Pepper Pastor, who led hair for L’Oréal Professionnel. To create texture, Pastor sprayed the hair with L’Oréal Professionnel Crêpage de Chignon, then used a curling iron to create slight waves. She then made roughly six small braids by the ears and around the head, which had an unraveling look to stay in tune with the grungy theme.
Nails also embraced an aura of mysticism with symbols painted on top of black nail polish. “We’re doing the design in white on a random finger, so it kind of looks like the girl put it on her finger just to be symbolic, not as an accessory,” said Holly Falcone, who keyed nails for Zoya. After painting two coats of the black polish, in shade Willa, Falcone painted a symbol, like a moon, cross or triangle, on each hand in shade Purity.