At Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti, Charlotte Rampling in “The Night Porter” inspired both makeup artist Lucia Pieroni, working with MAC Cosmetics, and hairstylist Luigi Murenu.
The focus of the makeup, noted Pieroni, was “a very simple, slightly smudgy winged eye” which she created by applying MAC’s Black Track fluid eyeliner on the top lid from the iris of the eye outward, tapering slightly as liner winged outward. “This isn’t your perfect Fifties eyeliner,” she emphasized. Next, Pieroni applied a tiny bit of black mascara only at the roots of the lashes and applied MAC’s Studio Sculpt to the skin, adding a pearl accent at the tops of the cheekbones. She finished with a touch of MAC’s clear lip conditioner.
Murenu created a “modern, edgy look” by parting hair in the middle, slicked down with John Frieda’s Frizz Ease to control the hair. Next, he pulled hair back into a low ponytail, applying mousse for texture to the ponytail only. He then twisted hair up and around and pinned to create a piecy undone bun. “This isn’t a Spanish dancer bun – it’s meant to look like the girls could have done it themselves,” he said. He then applied Elnett hair spray all over, freeing several strands from the controlled front of the hair and pulling them down over the ears to provide movement when the girls strutted down the runway. “It’s very graphic, like the clothes,” said Murenu.