The beauty look may have been inspired by the dark ages but one thing was apparent backstage at Rodarte, both hair and makeup were focused on shine and reflection.
“It’s modern medieval,” said James Kaliardos for Nars, who infused moisture and luminosity with NarsSkin Optimal Brightening Concentrate. He also used Nars toner and moisturizer on each of the girls, to keep skin looking healthy. To impart a wet-finish for eyes and lips, Kaliardos used Triple X Lip Gloss on both. He spread the gloss all the way into the eye brow for a “shiny, modern” look. On the face, Kaliardos spotted on Radiant Creamy Concealer — new for Spring 2013 — focusing on the center of the face, so that there would be virtually “no foundation” on the sides. Sex Appeal blush was applied to the center of the cheek, while the inner corner of the eye was given a dab of Nars Himalayas eye shadow for a “reflective spin.” Eye lashes were curled but left without mascara. “It’s about reflection and skin tone,” he said about the overall look.
Hair was equally simple, but directional.
“It’s very straight, very flat and sleek and tight to the head,” said Odile Gilbert for Kérastase, who began by prepping damp hair with Sublimateur Jour, a leave-in conditioner. She then blow dried it with a round brush, adding in Fibre Architecte, a heat-activated protective product, which also is designed to seal split ends. After using a flat iron, Gilbert created a “horizontal part” across the back of the head and something of a comb over, so models would have a shorter piece hanging in their faces like a panel. “The effect is that she shaved the side of her head,” said Gilbert. The deep part also allowed for Rodarte’s pewter-hued dragon ear cuffs, which Gilbert attached herself, to remain exposed. “It’s about modernity,” said Gilbert, who used Double Force hairspray to keep the style in place. “There’s no trick. It’s very clean and graphic.”
The nude-hued nails, which featured an intricate crossover pattern in matte and shiny finishes, echoed beauty’s Gothic inspiration. CND nail artists layered High Shine Pearl with Desert Suede, then added a drop of Chocolate Milk, on a wax paper, which they left to dry overnight. The next day they cut strips from the lacquered sheet and affixed them across the artificial nails, which were “moderate-length, rounded squares. It’s a little bit of a reference to bondage and torture but in the sweetest possible way,” quipped CND cofounder and lead stylist, Jan Arnold, who said it took more than 200 hours to create the collection of nail tips used in the show.