“The makeup reference at Simone Rocha was punky, Victorian, a little bit religious and a little bit royal,” said MAC’s Sam Bryant. Skin was prepped with BB cream, followed by a flush of putty pink in Casual Colour, Have a Lovely Day on the cheeks, and a smudge of Whirl lip pencil on the mouth.
She said she wanted the gold leaf on models’ faces to be “really conceptual and ‘off.’” The leaf was applied on the forehead with water-based glue to create shapes ranging from “gold sweat beads” to a more full-on effect. Bryant said the leaf is so delicate that no one can breathe on it, and if the girl’s skin is too hot it won’t stay.
Hair by James Pecis, who was working with Babyliss, was similarly intricate. As always with Simone, he said, there were references from her Irish heritage — ponies and wilderness and tomboyish-ness. This was translated into braids and cornrows “to inject a toughness into the prettiness of the collection.”
Hair was blown dry to give it volume and texture, and then each girl was given three irregular cornrows. Hair was sectioned from the center front with the braids snaking down the nape of the neck and secured with tiny black elastics. The remaining wisps were waved with a curling tong to give the hair some movement.