Thakoon’s garden-inspired collection featured hair and faces that felt equally whimsical, but unequivocally modern.
“The word is fantasy,” said makeup artist Diane Kendal, whose look also nodded to Mia Farrow in The Great Gatsby, and focused on brows and cheeks. “[The collection is] influenced by birds, butterflies and has a lot of prints.” To begin, Kendal applied Nars Luminous Moisture Cream and Optimal Brightening Concentrate to models to impart a “reflective” quality. To perfect complexions, Kendal used all new products for spring, Radiant Creamy Concealer, Light Reflecting Setting Powder and Seduction Blush — which was used lower on the face rather than the cheekbone, “like a painting.” Brows, one of the focal points of the look, “alluded to the fantasy” and were darkened with Mambo and Jodhpur Eyeliner pencils. Lashes were curled and left mascara-free and both Bali and Blondie Single Eyeshadows were used in the crease of the eye. Santa Monica Blvd Larger Than Life Long-Wear Eyeliner was also used on eyes.
Hair, styled by Odile Gilbert for Kérastase, was also inspired by the garden, but more specifically a birdcage. “It’s quite a strict look,” said Gilbert, who first gave the models a middle part, then prepped them with Nectar Thermique. Next, she sectioned off hair and used Double Force Controle Ultime hair spray on each section, from the middle of the head to the ends. To infuse the crimplike waves, Gilbert use a three-barrel iron along with plenty of Elixir Ultime Thé Imperial for shine and an “extreme wet look.” Black bobby pins were then “weaved” across the back of the head — at about the midway mark — to “create a cage” and a feeling of structure. “We wanted something romantic but modern,” said Gilbert, who closed off the ponytail at the end with a tiny black elastic.