“It’s geisha couture,” said makeup artist Kabuki, as he described the look at Zac Posen Sunday evening. “It’s inspired by Japan.”
Working on behalf of MAC Cosmetics, he added, “Like Marlene Dietrich or Lana Turner on the Orient Express. It’s an early-Fifties or late-Thirties glamorous doll feel. We’re shaping the eyes in a horizontal way.”
The top lids of the eyes had a three-tone, pink-white-black effect that was “winged out” to the temples. A shade called Expensive Pink was applied just under the brow, a white pencil and cream eye shadow was put on just below that and a black liner was started at the inner corner of the eye and drawn out in a “smoky trail” to the outer corners.
Kabuki used a full coverage foundation to even out the face then applied a frosty powder highlight to the cheekbones. He described pouts as “very glossy, lacquered red lips.”
On the hair side, John Frieda’s Luigi Murenu created a striking, architectural chignon that comprised sleek ponytails rolled up into a sideways loop, into which three or four stiff, lacquered hair pieces were inserted. The flat pieces were situated diagonally and vertically creating a fanlike effect on some girls.
Murenu, who is global creative consultant for John Frieda, prepped the hair with a shine serum called Frizz-Ease Sheer Solution, which allowed stylists to create the slicked back look.