The beauty look backstage at Zac Posen was all about the models being themselves. Kabuki, MAC Cosmetics’ key makeup artist for the show, was inspired by high glamour, coupled with individuality. “I wanted a look that would be equally flattering to every model,” said Kabuki, who said he made girls look like they were “slightly from the Sixties.” Kabuki — who was also inspired by a black-and-white photo of Lena Horne and socialites like Diane Vreeland — focused on the eyes, attaching two pairs of false eyelashes on each model, which he then “integrated” into each other with a fan brush and black mascara for a “doe-eyed” effect. To the lashes, Kabuki added a slight “wing” effect on the outer counters. He then created a “gray smoke” effect from the brow to the lid, by filling with a soft cream shadow applied with an index finger and set with invisible powder. Taupe pencil was used along the lower lash line on the outer edges for “definition.” Brows were “thick and arched,” and defined with powdery eyebrow pencils and MAC Brow Set Clear. “It’s slightly theatrical because we are making everything bigger,” he said. “It’s not about transforming, but instead enlarging.” Skin was perfected with Studio Sculpt Foundation in Bone Beige and Studio Finish concealer and lips were defined in Stripdown nude pencil and filled with a satiny nude lipstick to complement each model’s skin tone.
The bombshell-esque hairdo, by Luigi Murenu for John Frieda, took inspiration from Posen’s collection and the “romantic culture of the Forties.” Some of the models’ hair was colored for added “polish and shine.” The top of the hair was kept “very flat,” and a voluminous Rita Hayworth-inspired wave was infused throughout the head with a one-inch curling iron. To keep frizz under control, Murenu used Frizz-Ease Mousse for height and Moisture Barrier Hair spray to control flyaways. “It’s like polished wood,” he said of the overall effect.
Nails, done by Essie, echoed the sentiment of uniqueness, with four skin tone-inspired shades — Glamour Purse, a dark taupe; Not Just a Pretty Face, a dusty rose; Brooch the Subject, a true beige, and A Crewed Interest, a perfect peach, each perfectly matched to models.