Always leaning toward the abstract, the beauty look at Thom Browne solely consisted of a wool, monochromatic fabric.
“Thom Browne wants to celebrate herringbone and gray flannel,” said Aaron de Mey, who keyed makeup for MAC Cosmetics. “He wanted to see interesting looking makeup, so it was a way of being a little bit more conceptual and abstract. Rather than using pigments, we’re using fabric to replicate makeup.” The look incorporated three different fabrics predominantly used in Browne’s collection: gray, black and herringbone patterned wool. Using eyelash glue, de Mey applied a strip of the fabric on top of the eyebrow, which arched down at the ends to give a nod to both eyeliner and eyebrow makeup. De Mey also glued the same fabric on top of the lips. The fabrics chosen corresponded with each models’ look. For models with paler skin, de Mey painted the face with a porcelain colored matte foundation to give the skin a sheer look and to let the fabric stand out.
Hair also incorporated the wool with models sporting flowing braids draped in the fabric. “We thought it would be a great idea if we did one kind of hairstyle with hair and then re-create the hairstyle with the material he used in the collection,” said Eugene Souleiman, who led hair for Wella Professionals, on creating the look with the designer. “We wanted to thread the material into the top of the hair and kind of almost re-create what we’ve done.” The key to executing the look was starting with a perfect base. Using gel and hairspray, the hair was prepped and braided starting from the top of the head. The floor-length strands of fabric were then threaded into these braids, which were then twisted into braids mimicking the hairstyle. The braids draped to the ground, meant to trail the models as they walked down the runway.
Nails were also sporting the fabric in the monochromatic hues and in shades like yellow, blue and red.