MUNICH — With the launch of the new Baldessarini men’s fragrance, the family of Hugo Boss brand scents is now complete.
This story first appeared in the June 28, 2002 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
Baldessarini is the latest to join the line-up of Procter & Gamble Prestige Beaute fragrances under the Boss men’s, Boss women’s, Hugo men’s, Hugo women’s and, most recently, the Hugo Boss Orange labels. The Baldessarini men’s collection is the absolute top of the line at the German fashion house, and takes the name of former Boss chairman of the board, Werner Baldessarini.
Baldessarini, who stepped down in May, is now a member of the advisory board and will continue to act as a creative consultant to the company and its Baldessarini luxury men’s wear collection. He was also integral in the three-year development of the new Baldessarini scent, which will make its debut in Germany, Austria, Switzerland, the U.K. and travel retail in September; in Japan, Asia and Latin America in November; in the U.S., France, and Spain in March 2003, and in Italy and remaining markets later in the year.
Like the fashion range, Baldessarini is Boss’ most exclusive scent, and sales and distribution will therefore be more limited. “We’re keeping this more exclusive than the Boss lines, but we’re hoping for a lot because it’s so good,” commented Rene Dominik, Baldessarini global brand manager.
Dominik wouldn’t talk numbers, but industry sources projected Baldessarini will ring up about $15 million to $18 million at retail sales its first year, compared with a projected $30 million for the most recent Boss Hugo Boss (orange label) scent. In key markets like Germany, he explained, about 80 percent of the normal Boss doors will be served, whereas in the U.K., for example, the number will be about one-third. However, the U.K. will get a head start with Baldessarini in August, when Harrods prelaunches a numbered, 1,000-bottle limited-edition series of the prestige eau de cologne refillable flacon.
International Flavors & Fragrances’ Pierre Wargnye — who has Hugo Boss Number One, the first Boss fragrance, to his credit — and Jean-Marc Chaillan created the juice. The top note is a mix of mandarin, bitter orange and green mint; heart notes feature patchouli blossoms, carnation and caraway, while the base note blends sandalwood, Douglas fir resin, patchouli leaves, tobacco, plus amber and musk-like notes.
The heavy, metal “prestige” bottle, designed by Lutz Herrmann, is based on an antique eau de cologne bottle that Baldessarini found on a trip to Singapore. The aluminum alloy flacon encases a refillable 50-ml. glass eau de cologne bottle, and is packaged in an octagonal semi-transparent acrylic box. Priced at $98.83 the prestige flacon comes complete with a polishing cloth, as the metal does pick up finger prints when touched.
The 50-ml. eau de cologne recharge retails for $41.26, and the range also includes a 75-ml. eau de cologne at $51.08, 75-ml. aftershave lotion at $41.26 and aftershave balm at $34.38, all in glass versions of the signature bottle. There’s also shower gel, deodorant spray and deodorant stick, all at $19.64. All prices are converted from the euro at current exchange rates.
The advertising campaign stars Charles Schumann, the face behind Baldessarini fashion for the last four years, and the proprietor of Munich’s hippest watering hole, Schumann’s Bar. The Baldessarini fragrance tag line reads: “Separates the men from the boys.”
The ad budget for Baldessarini will be “very close to the figure of what we spent on Boss,” Dominik said, with “decent print support and TV campaigns where we normally do TV.” In the TV ad, which has yet to be shot, Schumann will also walk off with another object of desire — but this time, it’s the fragrance bottle. The print ads were photographed by Mauro Taliani, a designer for several Boss labels as well as a teacher of fashion at FIT in Florence.”