"The inspiration [for the look] started off being the Countess of Castiglione," explained hairstylist Orlando Pita backstage at Christian Dior and referring to Napoleon’s mistress from the 19th century.
Dovetailing from that were four themes taking cues from: the equestrian world, the 1890s, the Standard Oil heiress Millicent Rogers and designer Charles James.
Pita conceived voluminous shapes. For the equestrian section, for instance, a balloon was inserted under each bun at the back of models’ heads. He painted white bits of hair springing from their foreheads, since it’s what Castiglione used to do.
For her part, makeup artist Pat McGrath created a quartet of looks in keeping with the themes. She swept some models’ faces with white, cheeks with a pearly pink and eyelids with a healthy dose of dramatic black liner (of various thicknesses). Certain peepers popped with bright blue or purple shadow, and lip colors ranged from nude to ruby.