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Lucia Pieroni, working for Clé de Peau and using her fall 2009 color collection for the brand, was aiming for a “very simple, little porcelain doll” effect at Vera Wang Thursday morning. Pieroni swept gold eye shadow across the eyelid, swooshing it around onto the cheek for a subtle highlight.

Next, she added a tiny bit of taupey brown shadow at the lash line: “It’s intended to create a contoured, sculptured look, but a very subtle one,” Pieroni explained. Eyebrows were the main focus of the look: “It’s a big, slightly bushy eyebrow with a little arch at the far end,” she said. “It’s strong, but not in a Groucho Marx way.” Pieroni chose to forgo blush — “We’re pinching the models’ cheeks immediately before they head out on the runway” — and added pale pink lip gloss. “Overall, the look is something you could reproduce at home.”

That was also the effect Jimmy Paul, working for Bumble and bumble, was after for the hair. Paul did three looks — one plain for the models with pixie cuts, one with a low ponytail looped through itself, and a knot that literally consisted of Paul teasing then knotting the hair and pinning it to the head. “ ‘Nothing harsh’ was our brief from Vera,” said Paul. “She said she didn’t want the girls to look stiff and lacquered, like showroom models from the Eighties. All of the looks were meant to have the hair seeming like an afterthought — as the girl ran out the door.” Still, even seemingly effortless hairstyles still take effort: Paul first prepped hair with Bumble and bumble’s Prep and Thickening Spray, blow-drying the products into the hair. Next, he used bands and pins, depending on which of the three looks he was doing, to fashion the looped ponytails and knots. Paul decided to forgo hair spray, “so that hair would look natural and lived in.

“Because this season’s show was very intimate, it gave us the ability to do more subtle looks,” said Paul. “They didn’t have to read from a runway — the audience was very close up, and as a result the looks were more natural.”

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