By  on August 9, 2005

BERLIN — Like the sports and apparel brand itself, the Adidas fragrance franchise is moving from mass to class with its first Adidas Originals men's fragrance.

The new fragrance is under the aegis of the Lancaster Group — which markets those scents parent Coty Inc. positions as prestige fragrances — rather than under Coty's mass market division. Next month, the eight-unit range will hit the counters of perfumeries, department stores and Adidas Originals stores in Germany, Austria, Switzerland and Poland — plus Adidas Originals stores exclusively in the U.K.

A further rollout in France, the U.S., travel retail and the rest of the U.K. is slated for the first quarter of 2006, and plans are in place for a women's Adidas Originals launch in March or April of next year.

Lancaster and Coty executives declined to discuss sales goals, but industry sources estimated the men's scent could rack up $30 million in first-year retail sales.

Whereas the sports brand Adidas — and Coty's Adidas fragrance and ancillary products — are primarily functional in orientation, Adidas Originals is a selective, lifestyle brand, executives contend. As an apparel and accessories label, Adidas Originals targets young, street-smart consumers with a style Adidas claims blends authenticity, classicism and innovation. Lancaster has endeavored to reflect this in the Adidas Originals scent.

"The fragrance market has been stagnant or declining for years, and it's very, very important to establish new concepts in this environment," said Nicole Nitsche, marketing manager of the Lancaster Group in Germany.

Created by Philippe Bousseton, senior perfumer of Takasago, the juice has a classic base of wood — plus vetiver and vanilla — top notes of aromatic nutmeg, fennel and coriander, and a heart of citrus, mint, sambuca, licorice and blue curaçao, which is known as the Kiss Cool accord.

Bousseton discovered a cocktail called Kiss Cool at a party, and after smelling it, decided it was something he had to use. "The only problem was to re-create the ambience of the bar and the music olfactorily," he said. "The bar had a rich and cozy feel, which we get through woods. And, as for the effect of the music, there are a lot of aromatic plants to give that sparkle."

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