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Beauty Beat: Beauty Industry Responds To Lipstick Lead Charges… Bulgari Parfums’ Latest Scent

The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics on Thursday issued a report stating that top lipstick brands — including L'Oreal, Cover Girl and Dior — contain lead, according to lab tests.

The L'Eau de Toilette Rosee scent is a variation on Bulgari Parfums' Rose Essentielle.

The L'Eau de Toilette Rosee scent is a variation on Bulgari Parfums' Rose Essentielle.

WWD Staff

The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics on Thursday issued a report stating that top lipstick brands — including L’Oréal, Cover Girl and Dior — contain lead, according to lab tests.

The watchdog organization said that, of the 33 red lipsticks tested for lead by an independent laboratory last month, 61 percent contained detectable levels of lead, although none of the lipsticks listed lead as an ingredient.

In response to The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics’ findings, L’Oréal stated: “The L’Oréal Group is committed to upholding the highest standards of safety for all the products it makes and sells. Each and every ingredient used in our products has been thoroughly reviewed and tested by our internal safety team made up of toxicologists, clinicians, pharmacists and physicians.”

The findings also were challenged by the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, a beauty industry trade organization. John Bailey, CTFA’s executive vice president for science, stated, “Despite continuous allegations over the years, lead is not intentionally added to cosmetics. Lead is a naturally occurring element that is found everywhere in the environment….The average amount of lead a woman would be exposed to when using cosmetics is 1,000 times less than the amount she would get from eating, breathing and drinking water that meets Environmental Protection Agency drinking water standards.”

He added: “Despite the negligible levels of lead found in some lipsticks, cosmetic companies are committed to reducing that level even further.”

The U.S. Food and Drug Administration issued a statement Friday afternoon, saying it has been aware of similar reports in the past, and ” these concerns have not generally been supported by FDA’s own analysis of products on the market.

“In the present case, we are looking into the specific details of the issues raised,” the agency noted, adding it will have to “independently confirm the factual basis of the report to determine whether or not it would take any action.”
— Molly Prior

Bulgari Parfums’ Latest Scent

MILAN — Lately, everything smells of roses at Bulgari Parfums headquarters.

The Roman jewelry firm has launched the L’Eau de Toilette Rosée scent this month in the U.S. The scent is a variation on Bulgari Parfums’ fragrance Rose Essentielle, launched in 2005.

Perfumer Béatrice Piquet from International Flavors & Fragrances created both rose scents for Bulgari and said of the fragrances’ notes: “[They are] not quite the same, nor entirely different. I drew inspiration for this new olfactory emotion from the very heart of Rose Essentielle. I kept L’Eau de Toilette Rosée’s timeless and ultrafeminine floral chypre signature while exalting its fresh, luminous and fruity facets to accentuate the contrasts.”

Both fragrances pay homage to two of the most popular rose accords in perfumery: the Ottoman rose and the Prélude rose. L’Eau de Toilette Rosée features the pair of rose notes at the heart of the scent with sambac jasmine, while the scent’s top notes are bergamot and orange blossom and the sole bottom note is musk.

“Besides reducing the concentration to contribute toward this new perspective, I also modified the top note, which is now magnified and asserts itself. The incisive and sparkling temperament of bergamot and orange zests instantly open it up,” Piquet added.

Piquet also cocreated Bulgari’s children’s scent Petits et Mamans with Nathalie Lorson in 1997.

L’Eau de Toilette Rosée was launched in Bulgari’s two Japanese flagships at the end of August and will be rolled out to Asia and the U.S. this month, followed by Europe in November.

Available in two sizes, L’Eau de Toilette Rosée eau de toilette will sell for $69 for 50 ml. and $98 for 100 ml. Industry sources estimate the scent could generate $4 million in first-year sales.

Thierry De Bashmakov designed L’Eau de Toilette Rosée’s pale pink glass flacon and top with its gold collar. The flacon is a twist on Bulgari’s original Pour Femme bottle, also created by De Bashmakov.

For the scent’s print advertising campaign, Bulgari Parfums continued its collaboration with Kate Moss — who was the face of the company’s restyled Pour Femme fragrance last year. Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott shot a close-up of the model holding a pale pink-and-white rose, her hair fastened in an updo.

L’Eau de Toilette Rosée marks Bulgari’s 10th women’s fragrance. The firm’s next launch will be a new men’s scent in early 2008.
— Stephanie Epiro