MILAN — Unipro, the association for Italian cosmetics industries, has released preliminary sales results for 2007 and recapped the history of the Italian beauty industry during the 40 years since the association was founded.
Italy’s beauty industry is on track to close this year with combined sales of 8.9 billion euros, or $13.06 billion at current exchange, a 2.5 percent increase from 2006. This year’s figure is a long stretch from the industry’s turnover in 1967, the year Unipro was founded, when sales were the equivalent of 110 million euros.
At a recent party marking Unipro’s 40th anniversary, Emma Bonino, the Italian government minister for international commerce, inaugurated the event with a speech that championed the importance of Italian beauty companies, regardless of their size.
“The Italian beauty sector has a grand future because it incorporates every aspect of Italian strength in business: technology, innovation and creativity,” said Bonino, adding the Italian beauty industry is considered one of five major Italian industries including fashion, food, automobile and home furnishings.
For 2008, Bonino outlined the importance of the Middle Eastern and Southeast Asian markets for the Italian beauty industry and said further sales growth was expected from key export markets like Europe, Japan, Russia and the U.S.
Unipro executives confirmed the Italian beauty industry would most likely top 9 billion euros, or $13.2 billion, in sales in 2008, despite a hike in raw materials prices.
Fabio Franchina, president of Unipro, said the association took its anniversary as an opportunity to look at the history of small, medium and multinational companies in the Italian beauty industry.
“We’re studying the companies’ dynamics over the years,” said Franchina, “and looking at them now in order to locate their principal sources of competitive advantages and equip them with useful tools to confront the future,” said Franchina.
In order to survive, said Franchina, Italian beauty firms must invest in research, innovation and internationalization. — Stephanie Epiro
Estée Lauder Sued by Nefeli
NEW YORK — Nefeli Corp., a company that markets skin care products incorporating traditional Chinese medicine concepts, sued the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. for $5 million in state court. The case was filed in July by Nefeli and its founder, Dr. Ping Zhang, but only recently came to light.According to legal documents, Nefeli alleged that it entered into a secrecy agreement with Estée Lauder in June 2005 to provide the company with confidential information, samples, technology and material used in the Nefeli skin care line. The agreement was later extended to include Origins, Nefeli said.
According to the legal documents, Nefeli alleged that Lauder analyzed and reverse engineered product samples after receiving products and information from Nefeli. The lawsuit contained allegations of breach of contract and fraud. Zhang also said Origins Youthtopia products, which use herbal Rhodiola to fight aging, falsely claim to be a new approach. Nefeli said it has used Rhodiola for some time.
Lauder said it declines to comment on pending litigation, but in court documents filed in answer to the complaint denied the allegations. Board Moves at L’Oréal
PARIS — L’Oréal announced Friday that Franck Riboud has decided to end his tenure as a director of the company’s board, a position he has held since 2002. The French beauty giant’s board has co-opted Charles-Henri Filippi, chairman of the board of HSBC France. That appointment is pending approval at L’Oréal’s next shareholder meeting.
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over the top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty