NEW YORK — Next month, Bulgari will look into its crystal ball and hope for a winner with the launch of Omnia Crystalline.
The woody, floral fragrance — inspired by the “pureness of crystal,” Bulgari said — will launch exclusively at 95 Nordstrom doors in July and then will be rolled out in September to selected Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdale’s, Saks Fifth Avenue, Marshall Field’s and Sephora stores, for a total of 250 doors.
“It started with a notion of transparency and luminosity,” Paolo Alberti, vice president of the perfume and licenses division for Bulgari, said of the scent. “We wanted to make a jewel-like object that had maximum purity and light. Our heritage in jewelry made the pureness of crystals and the name Crystalline come to mind immediately.”
A strong departure from the original spicy Oriental Omnia, which was launched in September 2003, Crystalline was developed by Firmenich’s Alberto Morillas. The scent features top notes of bamboo and nashi, a Japanese pear; middle notes including lotus flower, and bottom notes featuring balsa wood.
The Crystalline collection will include 1.33-oz. and 2.2-oz. spray eaux de toilette priced at $57 and $67, respectively. A 6.8-oz. body lotion for $38 and a 6.8-oz. shower gel for $36 will accompany the scents. While there’s no national advertising planned for Crystalline at this time, industry sources expect the fragrance to do up to $5 million at retail in its first year on counter. — Bryn Kenny
Panel Weighs Global Issues
NEW YORK — When planning international expansion, cultural awareness is far more important than retail penetration strategy and global distribution efficiencies, said executives at The Fashion Group International’s “The Brave New World of Beauty: Rising to the Challenge of Emerging Markets in a Global Business” forum last month.
“It is critical for us to examine the key emotional and cultural drivers that will influence tastes in different markets,” said Nicolas Mirzayantz, senior vice president of fine fragrances and beauty care at International Flavors & Fragrances. “There is always talk of globalization, but local and regional needs come first. You have to have local creative centers.” For example, as IFF grows in India, said Mirzayantz, selling its existing fragrances won’t be as significant as developing new scents that incorporate local Indian flowers and incenses important to the country’s cultural and religious traditions.Though developing new products for emerging markets and determining which existing brands will sell there is a key component of expansion, “product is not the hard part,” said Jill Scalamandre, senior vice president of global beauty brands at Avon Products Inc. “The more difficult thing is the communication of the product.” Again, local culture must dictate the direction of the advertising and merchandising of the brand. For instance, Avon extensively tests verbiage, expression and presentation of their products before launching any advertising campaign — although the general message remains the same.
“In emerging markets, you have to make sure you do not make assumptions based on where you have been before,” said Peter Lichtenthal, senior vice president of global marketing for The Estée Lauder Cos. “You have to adapt the core positioning of a brand with the nuance of the language or the materials you present.”
While brand positioning changes with each locale, adapting the brand campaign does not necessarily require revamping the entire advertising philosophy, the panel contended. Product launch techniques that are considered stale in the U.S., for example, may be innovative and fresh in China.
The panelists believe China, Russia, India, Mexico and Brazil to be among the top emerging markets right now, but they aren’t ignoring the growth potential in mature markets. “As a French company, one of the biggest focuses of investment is in the U.S.,” said Christian Courtin-Clarins, president and chief executive officer of Clarins Group. “We never forget that.” — Amy S. Choi
EXCLUSIVE: Two and half months after John Targon, cofounder and codesigner of Baja East, was hired as creative director of the contemporary division at Marc Jacobs, he has left the company, WWD has learned. Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed Targon’s departure in a statement: “John Targon is a talented designer and we appreciate the work he has done here. Ultimately working together did not make sense for the brand and we wish him the best.” Read the story by @jessiredale, link in bio. #wwdnews
@theluxurycollection is officially launching a collection, tapping Sofia Sanchez de Betak for the capsule. Over 30 styles will be featured in the Chufy x The Luxury Collection, debuting next month at Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster, FiveStory and more. De Betak, known as “@chufy,” drew inspiration for the collection from her trips to Japan in the past year #wwdfashion
@lhd, founder and CEO of @thewebster, has teamed up with @lebonmarcherivegauche for the European launch of her ready-to-wear line, LHD. The launch will come with an exclusive pop-up opening today that’s set to run through May 20. Located on the second floor, it carries her debut Miami-themed resort collection, launched in November as see-now-buy-now. #wwdfashion
@longchamp, which marks its 70th anniversary this year, just opened its biggest U.S. store on Manhattan’s Fifth Avenue. On the lower level there’s a floor-to-ceiling display of the brand’s iconic Le Pliage bag – in all of its different colors, shapes and sizes. Customers can also have their product personalized in-store by imprinting names, initials or emblems. #wwdfashion (📷: @ericmtownsend)
“Whenever I’m in that place of sound and music, I don’t have fear or nervousness…This album has a lot of themes of courage and boldness and I want to be the soundtrack for people’s lives. I’ll be so happy if [my songs] evoke strength in people, which I know music has done for me,” says @kimbramusic of her newest album “Primal Heart.” The New Zealand-born singer sat down with WWD to talk about her music, newest tour and connecting with hear fans — read more on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
Luxury handbag resale company @rebagofficial is planning to sell a rare collectible for $70,000: the @hermes White Crocodile Himalayan Birkin. The exclusive Birkin sold for about $100,000 in 2008, when @davidbeckham bought one for his wife @victoriabeckham to add to her collection. Read more about the rare Birkin on WWD.com #wwdaccessories
With her costume pearl necklace and what-you-see-is-what-you-get style, Barbara Bush, who died Tuesday at age 92, was a straight-shooter from start to finish.
Born Barbara Pierce in New York City, Bush served as the 37th first lady, as well as the country’s second lady from 1981 to 1989. In addition to being part of the longest presidential marriage — 73 years — Bush also had the unlikely distinction of having one son, George W., become the 43rd president and another son, Jeb, run unsuccessfully in 2016. Having served as second lady during the Reagan administration’s two terms and lived all over the world during her own husband’s ascending political career, Barbara Bush made it clear that literacy — not fashion — was her priority. Read more from Rosemary Feitelberg’s obituary on the late First Lady in WWD.com, link in bio. #barbarabush #wwdnews
Western and ’90s trends have influenced denim for fall 2018. Think raw, dark and coated jeans mixed with bold prints and tough leather. #trendtuesdays #wwdfashion (Styled by @thealexbadia;📷: @ryanplett)