NEW YORK — Next month, Bulgari will look into its crystal ball and hope for a winner with the launch of Omnia Crystalline.
The woody, floral fragrance — inspired by the “pureness of crystal,” Bulgari said — will launch exclusively at 95 Nordstrom doors in July and then will be rolled out in September to selected Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdale’s, Saks Fifth Avenue, Marshall Field’s and Sephora stores, for a total of 250 doors.
“It started with a notion of transparency and luminosity,” Paolo Alberti, vice president of the perfume and licenses division for Bulgari, said of the scent. “We wanted to make a jewel-like object that had maximum purity and light. Our heritage in jewelry made the pureness of crystals and the name Crystalline come to mind immediately.”
A strong departure from the original spicy Oriental Omnia, which was launched in September 2003, Crystalline was developed by Firmenich’s Alberto Morillas. The scent features top notes of bamboo and nashi, a Japanese pear; middle notes including lotus flower, and bottom notes featuring balsa wood.
The Crystalline collection will include 1.33-oz. and 2.2-oz. spray eaux de toilette priced at $57 and $67, respectively. A 6.8-oz. body lotion for $38 and a 6.8-oz. shower gel for $36 will accompany the scents. While there’s no national advertising planned for Crystalline at this time, industry sources expect the fragrance to do up to $5 million at retail in its first year on counter. — Bryn Kenny
Panel Weighs Global Issues
NEW YORK — When planning international expansion, cultural awareness is far more important than retail penetration strategy and global distribution efficiencies, said executives at The Fashion Group International’s “The Brave New World of Beauty: Rising to the Challenge of Emerging Markets in a Global Business” forum last month.
“It is critical for us to examine the key emotional and cultural drivers that will influence tastes in different markets,” said Nicolas Mirzayantz, senior vice president of fine fragrances and beauty care at International Flavors & Fragrances. “There is always talk of globalization, but local and regional needs come first. You have to have local creative centers.” For example, as IFF grows in India, said Mirzayantz, selling its existing fragrances won’t be as significant as developing new scents that incorporate local Indian flowers and incenses important to the country’s cultural and religious traditions.Though developing new products for emerging markets and determining which existing brands will sell there is a key component of expansion, “product is not the hard part,” said Jill Scalamandre, senior vice president of global beauty brands at Avon Products Inc. “The more difficult thing is the communication of the product.” Again, local culture must dictate the direction of the advertising and merchandising of the brand. For instance, Avon extensively tests verbiage, expression and presentation of their products before launching any advertising campaign — although the general message remains the same.
“In emerging markets, you have to make sure you do not make assumptions based on where you have been before,” said Peter Lichtenthal, senior vice president of global marketing for The Estée Lauder Cos. “You have to adapt the core positioning of a brand with the nuance of the language or the materials you present.”
While brand positioning changes with each locale, adapting the brand campaign does not necessarily require revamping the entire advertising philosophy, the panel contended. Product launch techniques that are considered stale in the U.S., for example, may be innovative and fresh in China.
The panelists believe China, Russia, India, Mexico and Brazil to be among the top emerging markets right now, but they aren’t ignoring the growth potential in mature markets. “As a French company, one of the biggest focuses of investment is in the U.S.,” said Christian Courtin-Clarins, president and chief executive officer of Clarins Group. “We never forget that.” — Amy S. Choi
Taking the final spot on the mens’ portion of New York Fashion Week calendar next month will be none other than @tomford. Though he’s shown his men’s wear in New York in the past, this will mark the first time the designer has shown his men’s collection alone during New York Fashion Week: Men’s. His runway show will debut on February 6 at the Park Avenue Armory. #wwdfashion
London-based couture house @ralphandrusso has certainly been in the spotlight, having its dresses worn by @beyonce, Angelina Jolie, Meghan Markle in her engagement photos and more. For couture, Tamara Ralph focused on ornamentation — think: feathers with chain mail, jet embroidery and clusters of pearls and crystals. See the rest of the collection on WWD.com #wwdfashion #couture (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
Minnie Mouse celebrated her 90th birthday by getting her own star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame. For her celebratory luncheon, @coach’s creative director @stuartvevers dressed her in a custom made prairie dress, complete with Vever’s take on the polka dot – black sequined versions – under a cropped motorcycle jacket. The designer also put his own mark on Minnie’s classic red shoes, infusing the color with sparkles and adding some Coach crystals. “We chose colors that were very Minnie and also represented quintessential Coach elements,” said Vevers. #wwdfashion #nationalpolkadotday (📷: George Chinsee)
@nickjonas is unveiling his first-ever apparel collection through a partnership with John Varvatos. The limited-edition capsule, which makes its debut in spring, also marks the first time the designer has collaborated with anyone on a line. “The process in working with Nick is amazing. It’s inspiring to be around someone who is not only connected with the trade that they do, but also with what’s happening in the environment around him, and how that connects to what we do with style,” said Varvatos. (RG: @johnvarvatos) #wwdfashion
@margotrobbie steps out onto the red carpet wearing @miumiu. The actress is nominated for “Outstanding Performance by a Female Actor in a Leading Role” in “I, Tonya” at the #SagAwards. (📷: Stewart Cook) #wwdfashion
For @massimogiorgetti of @msgm, the Nineties are his favorite decade. “They had a huge impact on my personal growth. What I like of the Nineties is that they are not so precise in terms of style as other decades…there was actually a bit of everything,” he said. As seen on MSGM’s Spring 2018 show: tie-dye and a bit of grunge, two styles that are synonymous with the decade #wwdfashion #wwddecades (📷: @kukukuba)