By  on March 15, 2005

WASHINGTON — The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association on Monday announced it tapped the chief lobbyist of the medical technology industry to steer the $46.5 billion U.S. beauty business through federal, state and international political and regulatory shoals.

The new CTFA president and chief executive officer, Pamela G. Bailey, succeeds Ed Kavanaugh, who recently retired after being at CTFA’s helm for 22 years and with the association for 33 years. Bailey will be leaving her job as president and ceo of the Advanced Medical Technology Association, known as AdvaMed, a post she’s held since 2000.

AdvaMed’s members are manufacturers of medical devices, like coronary stents and artificial hips, as well as diagnostic technology, like DNA tests and Pap smears. Such medical wizardry might seem a distant cousin to the antiwrinkle creams, hair color, mascara and other beauty products sold by CTFA’s members, which include Estée Lauder Cos., Revlon and Procter & Gamble. However, both sectors are deeply involved in regulatory issues overseen by the Food and Drug Administration, and by its state and international counterparts.

“We were looking for a strong leader, a great strategic thinker and someone who had an extensive technical background, which is important for someone to be successful in this trade association,” said Marc Pritchard, chairman of the CTFA board of directors, and president of P&G’s Global Cosmetics and Retail Hair Color division. Pritchard also served on the search committee to find a new CTFA chief, which oversees a staff of about 25.

Before becoming president of AdvaMed, Bailey served for 11 years as ceo of the Healthcare Leadership Council, a consortium of pharmaceutical and other medical-related concerns that weighs in on national health care policies. From 1985 to 1987 Bailey was a principal in the Washington lobbying firm of Michael Deaver and Assoc.

Deaver was a deputy chief of staff to President Ronald Reagan and his wife, Carolyn, is vice president of the CTFA Foundation’s Look Good Feel Better program, which pairs millions of dollars in donated cosmetics and beauty services with cancer survivors to help improve their personal images.

Prior to joining Michael Deaver and Assoc., Bailey served in the Reagan administration from 1981 to 1983 as special assistant to the President and deputy director of the White House Office of Public Affairs.At AdvaMed, Bailey worked with the medical regulatory side of the FDA, which requires companies to seek premarket approval for its devices and diagnostic procedures.

Although the agency doesn’t require beauty products to receive its preapproval, in the last 20 years, the FDA has questioned whether the advent of alphahydroxy acid face treatments and other antiaging creams should be treated as drugs. This would require such products to fall into the FDA’s medical regulatory scheme as changing “the structure or function” of the body. So far, the CTFA has beaten back agency attempts to reclassify these cosmetics, which would require a host of regulatory hurdles to cross before being marketed.

P&G’s Pritchard said Bailey’s extensive knowledge of the FDA was a plus in her candidacy. “She had a successful and collaborative relationship with the FDA,” said Pritchard, who also noted her lobbying ties on Capitol Hill.

With cosmetics becoming an increasingly global industry, Pritchard said he would like Bailey to extend her lobbying turf to “create alliances with other trade associations and governments around the world to harmonize regulations.” He said at AdvaMed Bailey worked closely with foreign medical trade associations.

Bailey did not return a call for comment by press time. She begins work at CTFA on April 4.

LVMH Taps Houel to Head New Fragrances

PARIS — LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton has appointed Laurent Houel as director of its recently created New Fragrances division. Prior to joining LVMH, Houel was international marketing vice president for Yves Saint Laurent Parfums for five years. He also worked in strategic marketing at Procter & Gamble, at Coty Inc.’s prestige Lancaster division and at Danone. LVMH New Fragrances division is to include Fendi and Pucci fragrances.

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