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Beauty Beat: Dermalogica Sets Launches, Improved Formulas… Inter Parfums Inc. Sales Hit $82.8M… Britain Ad Watchdog Targets L’Oreal…

Dermalogica is out to improve the performance of its products with new formulas from a churning product pipeline.

LOS ANGELES — Dermalogica is out to improve the performance of its products with new formulas from a churning product pipeline.

In October, the company will introduce an antiaging line called Age Smart. The products use antioxidants, glucosamine, white tea, lactic acid, peptides, vitamin C, yeast extract and soy isoflavonoids to combat the formation of free radicals that cause hyperpigmentation and proteins that break down the skin’s collagen and elastin, as well as other causes of aging.

“We have a unique ability to couple the science of the product together with [an] education component and have the sales force to communicate that to accounts,” said Jerry Wenker, the firm’s president and chief operating officer.

Six new products that will make up an 11-item line are a 5.1-oz. resurfacing cleanser that will sell for $35, a 5.1-oz. hydramist for $35, a 0.25-oz. lip complex for $30, a 0.21-oz. MAP-15 regenerator for $85, a 2.5-oz. multivitamin thermafoliant for $48 and a 1.7-oz. skin recovery SPF 30-day moisturizer for $60. There will also be a travel kit for $50.

Industry sources estimate the new line could generate first-year retail sales of $10 million.

Diana Howard, vice president of technical development, explained that Dermalogica is attempting to better segment its products into treatment needs. Instead of relying on its gray-and-white packaging alone, the company has added colored bars — green for MediBac, an adult acne treatment line it launched last month, and fuchsia for Age Smart — on the packaging to make products’ purposes obvious to consumers.

“Looking on the retail shelf, I can see that, if I love this particular product in the Age Smart line, there are the other products that are designed to compliment it because I see the bar,” said Howard. “People feel more comfortable knowing that if they have a skin care need, that particular need is being addressed specifically.”

Dermalogica products are available at 5,000 professional skin care outlets such as salons and spas.

— Rachel Brown

Inter Parfums Inc. Sales Hit $82.8M
NEW YORK — Inter Parfums Inc., parent of Inter Parfums SA, said second-quarter net sales increased by 17.8 percent to $82.8 million, from $70.3 million in the same period a year ago.

This story first appeared in the July 26, 2007 issue of WWD.  Subscribe Today.

The firm, based here, added that, when adjusted for the effects of foreign exchange, sales for the period ended June 30 were up by 13 percent.

In the U.S., sales jumped 29.5 percent to $12.3 million, from $9.5 million in the year-ago period, due to the performance of bath and body products the firm has produced for GapBody stores. Sales at European operations increased by 16.1 percent to $70.5 million from $60.7 million a year ago, primarily due to the “strength of Burberry [and] Lanvin” fragrances.

Sales for the first half of the year were up 18.9 percent to $167.9 million, from $141.2 million last year. At constant exchange, first-half sales were up by 14 percent.

Britain Ad Watchdog Targets L’Oréal
LONDON — Britain’s advertising watchdog said Wednesday that ads for L’Oréal Paris’ Telescopic Mascara could be misleading since brand spokeswoman Penélope Cruz wore some individual false lashes in print and television campaigns.

In addition, the Advertising Standards Authority said the advertising’s “up to 60 percent longer lashes” claim didn’t make clear that lashes would only appear to be longer. The ASA had received a complaint from a person who believed Cruz was wearing false eyelashes and thought the ads exaggerated the lash length that could be achieved using the mascara, according to a statement from the authority.

L’Oréal told the ASA that the actress wore a few individual lashes to fill gaps in her natural lashes, according to the statement, which added Cruz and a makeup artist signed an affidavit to support that fact.

“While Penélope Cruz may not have been wearing a full set of false eyelashes, the images of her wearing individual false lashes in the press and TV ad and the lash lengthening visual in the TV ad nevertheless exaggerated the effect that could be achieved by using the mascara on natural lashes,” the ASA statement said. “We concluded that, in the absence of a disclaimer stating that Penélope Cruz was wearing some individual false lashes added to her natural lashes, and because the ad did not make clear that the claim referred to an increase in the ‘appearance’ of lash length, the ads could mislead.”

The ASA said it has told L’Oréal to include a disclaimer if models are wearing false lashes in future advertising and to clarify its lash-lengthening assertion.

“Telescopic Mascara is a highly effective product, which is proven to perform exactly as we say it is intended to — lashes do appear up to 60 percent longer,” L’Oréal said in a statement. “The U.K.’s ASA watchdog confirmed this to be the case and there is absolutely no debate concerning the excellent performance of our product.”