PARIS — What does conceptual glamour smell like?

The public will find out next spring, when Viktor & Rolf’s debut fragrance with L’Oréal, Flowerbomb, lands like a happy pink grenade in about 1,000 doors worldwide.

“It stands for our philosophy of life. It symbolizes the power to transform anything into something positive and beautiful,” Viktor Horsting said earlier

this week.

L’Oréal’s first designer fragrance start-up since 1982, the scent was unveiled Wednesday at the Viktor & Rolf show. And, while it may be the baby of L’Oréal’s vast portfolio, which includes established designer names such as Giorgio Armani, Ralph Lauren and Cacharel, executives are banking on fast growth.

“We didn’t do this to be niche. We’re not excited by small things,” said Patricia Turck Paquelier, international brand president of L’Oréal’s Prestige & Collections International division. The Viktor & Rolf brand is part of PCI.

Already, there are plans to extend Viktor & Rolf’s reach into other categories, such as men’s scents.

Initially, L’Oréal is pursuing a tight approach to distribution. In the U.S., where the scent will likely be sold exclusively through one chain in no more than 50 doors, the strategy is equally selective.

“Our desire is to handle the two designers in a very special way,” said Jack Wiswall, president of the designer fragrances division at L’Oréal USA. “Our approach is going to be very, very limited distribution.”

“We have to nurture this brand,” agreed Richard Pinabel, assistant vice president of marketing at Viktor & Rolf at L’Oréal. “We need to take care of it.”

Like Turck Paquelier, Wiswall is equally bullish about the brand’s potential.

“We certainly think wherever we go, Flowerbomb should be one of the biggest launches [the retailer] has,” Wiswall said.

Executives declined to discuss numbers, however, industry sources estimate the fragrance could do $15 million at wholesale in its first year.

The eau de parfum will be available as 30-, 50- and 100-ml. sprays that will retail in Europe for 53 euros, 75 euros and 98 euros, respectively, or $65, $92 and $120 at current exchange.

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