NEW YORK — In his first major personnel decision as president and chief executive officer, William Lauder has named Dan Brestle as the new chief operating officer of The Estée Lauder Cos., a move expected to put greater emphasis on teamwork. The appointment will take effect Jan. 1.
In explaining why he chose Brestle, a 25-year Lauder veteran and group president, Lauder cited, during an interview, his brand-building and organizational leadership, then singled out his consensus and team-building skills. He marveled over Brestle’s knack “for getting people to stand in front of a train for him.”
In an earlier statement, Lauder noted, “Dan has demonstrated his expertise and leadership on many fronts, including branding, sales and operations.” Lauder added that he “is a steadfast employee advocate, an exceptional talent developer and a trusted adviser.”
The 44-year-old ceo said Brestle, 59, also provides “a nice intergenerational bridge between my father and myself.” Lauder was referring to Leonard Lauder, 71, a previous ceo who remains chairman.
Brestle’s appointment coincides with a realignment of responsibilities for two other group presidents, Patrick Bousquet-Chavanne and Philip Shearer. Under the new configuration, each executive will be charged with tasks of running operational divisions and entrusted to handle broad responsibilities that run across the corporate structure.
Traditionally, the company has been run by two-man teams with the chief operating officer playing an operational role. Previously, Lauder was paired with the now-retired ceo Fred Langhammer, and prior to that, Langhammer had worked with the elder Lauder.
Brestle will also play a classic operational role in addition to overseeing global operations, headed by Malcolm Bond, and research and development, led by Harvey Gedeon. Also reporting to Brestle will be John Demsey, head of the flagship Estée Lauder and MAC Cosmetics divisions; Lynne Greene, president of the specialty brands — Prescriptives, Jo Malone, La Mer and Kate Spade, and Jane Hudis, the recently named president of BeautyBank.
Group president Bousquet-Chavanne has gained a strategic mandate to look for new business opportunities across Europe and Asia, both in existing channels of distribution and in alternative territory. “I am pleased that Patrick will devote his vast entrepreneurial talents, his creativity and his incredible drive to capturing these revenue opportunities while continuing to lead the Aramis and Designer Fragrances group,” Lauder stated, adding that Bousquet-Chavanne will oversee Bobbi Brown, Stila, Darphin and Rodan + Fields.Lauder said putting Bousquet-Chavanne in charge of pursuing acquisitions is a key adjustment. Previously, acquisitions would be targeted by a senior executive, then “tossed into the lap of an operational executive, who was told ‘now make it work.’ Now we are going to make that process vertical,” he said, pointing out that Bousquet-Chavanne will be in charge of the whole show, from pinpointing targets in Europe and Asia to making the new acquisitions function. Like Shearer, Bousquet-Chavanne acquired responsibility for divisions previously overseen by Brestle — Stila, Bobbi Brown, Darphin and Rodan + Fields. In turn, Brestle acquired the Lauder and MAC divisions from Bousquet-Chavanne.
Group president Philip Shearer gained responsibility from Brestle for the two hair divisions, Aveda and Bumble and bumble, which Lauder previously had singled out as being in the forefront of the company’s growth potential. In addition, he will continue to oversee Clinique, Lauder’s biggest brand; Origins, and the Online division. “Philip’s long experience in a multichannel organization gives him a unique view on managing disparate categories within an overall portfolio, a skill that will become an increasingly important part of our corporate strategy,” Lauder stated.
Brestle and the two group presidents will continue to report to Lauder, as will Cedric Prouvé, the group president who oversees international.
Brestle said Lauder’s grand plan is something that he “passionately believes in and is looking forward to doing.” Brestle added he also has been asked to function as “point person for domestic retailers, when they have issues.”
Asked why he gave his executive both operational and corporate responsibilities, Lauder replied that “we already have a great team and we want to encourage more teamwork.” Lauder added that he “believes in the collective management approach, where success is not based on one individual.” Lauder took the helm as ceo on July 1 and has run the corporation since then without the help of a chief operating officer. Asked if he had considered not filling the post, Lauder quickly replied, “I did it for six months and I would like to live for another six months.” — Pete Born
Andy Roddick’s New RacketNEW YORK — While other fragrance houses search the red carpet for their next celebrity partner, Parlux Fragrances is moonlighting as a tennis scout and finding its big stars on the professional tennis circuit. Three months after recruiting Wimbledon champion Maria Sharapova, the Fort Lauderdale, Fla.-based company has announced a similar deal with world class tennis player Andy Roddick. Roddick, 22, will play a creative role in the eponymous fragrance, which is slated to bow in spring 2006.
“Andy is an extremely charismatic young man with superb athletic ability. His poise and magnetism attract a growing following of U.S. and international fans on and off the tennis court,” noted Parlux chairman and ceo Ilia Lekach. “I was told scent is the strongest sense tied to memory so I’m jazzed to share input on something that can create such a lasting impression,” Roddick said in a statement, adding, “It will be exciting to see what we come up with.” — Molly Prior
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)
The @cfda has shifted the dates of #NYFW, with Men’s showing on February 5 through February 7, and Women’s will directly follow, running from February 8 through 14. The preliminary schedule will be released on the CFDA’s web site in the next few days, but Mark Beckham, VP of marketing for the CFDA, revealed that @rafsimons will be back to close the men’s-specific part of the week with a show on February 7 #wwdfashion (📷: Kelly Taub)
@ferragamo is introducing a new space dedicated to the development of women’s and men’s leather good samples. The laboratory, which is created eco-friendly materials and designed to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturing processes, will allow the company to expand its accessories offering through traditional artisanal approaches. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
How does a “regular, degular, schmegular” girl from the Bronx, N.Y., become a Grammy-nominated artist with a certified platinum record in less than a year? Call it the @iamcardib come up. The 25-year-old has become a musical sensation, and the fashion world is taking note. “If I could describe her style I would say drama. She’s really into the dramatics,” says Cardi B’s stylist @kollincarter. See how Carter styles her bold and out there looks with the link in bio. #wwdfashion
“There is no formula. There is no guideline. I can watch Ted Talks all day, but there is no one who can advise me on exactly what it is I should be doing,” said @ronniefieg, CEO of @kith, in an interview with WWD’s @ariahughes at the brand’s new SoHo office in Manhattan. Head to WWD.com to see how Fieg went from hanging out in shoe stockrooms at 13 to building his own business. #wwdfashion (📷: @weston.wells)
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion