PARIS — Thierry Mugler Parfums' 15th anniversary year turned out to be stellar.
In 2007, one-and-a-half decades after the Groupe Clarins-owned brand launched Angel, the iconic and esoteric women's fragrance in a star-shaped bottle, Mugler introduced for yearend a constellation of limited edition products to fete its milestone birthday.
The biggest project was a one-shot fragrance for women, called La Part des Anges, whose name was taken from what spirit makers in France call liquid that evaporates — almost magically — over time. La Part des Anges was created under the auspices of cognac maker Rémy Martin and Givaudan perfumer Françoise Caron. The extract of Angel, aged for 23 weeks in wooden cognac barrels, filled 4,742 blue-colored, numbered fragrance flacons studded with fake crystals and topped with a star.
"It was a big success," said Joel Palix, president of Thierry Mugler Parfums, of the limited edition launched at the end of October. "We're out of stock."
So, too, is the one-shot, fake-jeweled ring, whose face opens to reveal a solid version of Angel. And the jumbo, 450-ml. Angel bottle priced at 2,000 euros, or $2,889 at current exchange, has already had at least three takers through Mugler's recently launched Web site for France.
All this activity, among others, helped spur the Mugler brand's business by between 5 and 15 percent in sell-through, depending on the country, said Palix. Last year, Thierry Mugler Parfums' sales reached 160.9 million euros, or $202.1 million at average yearly exchange.
Palix added that Angel generates somewhat more than half of Thierry Mugler's sales, and that France, the U.S. and Spain are its strongest markets. The Alien women's scent is Mugler's second-best seller and clocked up double-digit gains this year.
Palix said Thierry Mugler Parfums has found innovation to be the key to success in the fragrance industry. It allows a brand's story to be "never ending" and for it to recruit customers perennially, he explained.
Mugler's first makeup collection, Dare the Metamorphosis, which is being launched in limited distribution this month, also could expand the brand's consumer reach.
"We're preparing another big surprise for Angel next year," said Palix, without divulging more details. — Jennifer WeilDonna Karan's U.K. Fragrance Fete
LONDON — Donna Karan brought a spritz of New York glamour to the U.K. Wednesday night, with the London launch of DKNY Delicious Night, the designer's latest women's fragrance.
Despite chilly December temperatures, a line of revelers snaked outside the Serpentine Gallery to join the likes of Boy George, Rosanna Arquette, Francesca Versace, Jessica Stam and Peaches Geldof on the dance floor, which heaved with fans of DJ Mark Ronson.
"I'm going back home for Christmas next week, so I thought it was one last opportunity to have fun before doing all the family stuff," said model Jamie Dornan. The impending holidays also were perplexing for model Ben Grimes, who is on a quest for the perfect one-off gift. "I'm getting my boyfriend handmade Italian leather shoes," she said. — Brid Costello
Kidman Awarded in Newspaper Suit
LONDON — Chanel No.5 spokeswoman Nicole Kidman has won "substantial damages" from The Daily Telegraph, according to Kidman's lawyer, after the newspaper alleged she promoted a Jo Malone fragrance while attending press junkets for her film, "The Golden Compass," here.
"The publication of the article has caused damage to the claimant's [Kidman's] personal and professional reputation and she has suffered considerable embarrassment and distress," according to a statement read in London's High Court on Friday by the actress' lawyer, John Kelly. Kidman will donate the unspecified damages to the United Nations Development Fund for Women.
The Daily Telegraph also agreed to publish an apology and a retraction, as well as pay for Kidman's legal costs, according to a statement from Kidman's lawyers.
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)
The @cfda has shifted the dates of #NYFW, with Men’s showing on February 5 through February 7, and Women’s will directly follow, running from February 8 through 14. The preliminary schedule will be released on the CFDA’s web site in the next few days, but Mark Beckham, VP of marketing for the CFDA, revealed that @rafsimons will be back to close the men’s-specific part of the week with a show on February 7 #wwdfashion (📷: Kelly Taub)
@ferragamo is introducing a new space dedicated to the development of women’s and men’s leather good samples. The laboratory, which is created eco-friendly materials and designed to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturing processes, will allow the company to expand its accessories offering through traditional artisanal approaches. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
How does a “regular, degular, schmegular” girl from the Bronx, N.Y., become a Grammy-nominated artist with a certified platinum record in less than a year? Call it the @iamcardib come up. The 25-year-old has become a musical sensation, and the fashion world is taking note. “If I could describe her style I would say drama. She’s really into the dramatics,” says Cardi B’s stylist @kollincarter. See how Carter styles her bold and out there looks with the link in bio. #wwdfashion
“There is no formula. There is no guideline. I can watch Ted Talks all day, but there is no one who can advise me on exactly what it is I should be doing,” said @ronniefieg, CEO of @kith, in an interview with WWD’s @ariahughes at the brand’s new SoHo office in Manhattan. Head to WWD.com to see how Fieg went from hanging out in shoe stockrooms at 13 to building his own business. #wwdfashion (📷: @weston.wells)
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion