Symrise, Collette Partner for Special Designer Scents PARIS — What do you get when you mix three edgy fashion brands, an uberhip concept store and an essential oils house?
Some very unusual fragrances, including one perhaps better described as an odor.
That's what happened when Symrise teamed with Hussein Chalayan, Bless and As Four to create a limited-edition line of signature scents to be sold exclusively at Colette here this fall.
"We're always in search of ideas to stimulate the creativity of our perfumers," said Olivier Perrard, the then outgoing head of Symrise's business in Europe, Africa and the Middle East.
"They [perfumers] are bombarded all year by projects that have timing restrictions, that must respect regulatory norms and price constraints, so they don't have time to develop products that they really want to create."
That's where Colette came in. The store is acting as a "curator" for the collection of one-off fragrances, dubbed "Curated by Colette."
"Colette chose three designers most able to [cause a stir] and participate in this kind of project," Perrard explained.
The designers worked with Symrise perfumers to come up with scents on sky's-the-limit budgets. Their only constraint was the flacon in which the scents are to be bottled, which is the same for all the designers with the exception of their personalized labels. All three came up with unisex eaux.
Chalayan worked with Paris-based nose Mark Buxton to concoct a scent meant to remind the designer of a train journey from London's Victoria Station to Istanbul.
Of course, given Chalayan's conceptual bent, "He didn't want to smell London, Paris, Venice and Istanbul," noted Elisabeth Carre, Symrise's international fragrance development director, who acted as an intermediary between designers and perfumers. "There had to be a teleportation aspect to it."
Chalayan's fragrance comprises top notes of bergamot, cardamom, tea leaves, rose and lily; Lapsang Souchong tea, birch, tar and violet petal notes are at the heart, while patchouli, cedarwood, fir balsam and sandalwood notes are at its base.
Design duo Desiree Heiss and Ines Kaag of Bless also worked with Buxton to create their scent. To give the perfumer an idea of the type of fragrance they were after, each separately (and unbeknownst to the other) concocted a mixture of odiferous household products, including chocolate spread, shampoo and moisturizers."I tried to interpret the two ideas," said Buxton. "It's not a fragrance; it's more like an odor."
The scent, which is meant to reflect the wearer's personality, is made of notes of cardamom, cypress, ginger, geranium, thyme and mate absolute, plus a shortbread accord.
New York-based Symrise perfumer Frank Volkl worked with the As Four troika of designers for a fragrance.
"They were very focused on freshness for everyone," said Carre, adding that the scent comprises notes of three roots — ginger, vetiver and orris. "They stayed with the idea of roots of life."
Additional notes include lime, bergamot, cedarwood, sandalwood and musk.
All three fragrances, which will be available at Colette starting in September, will sell for 50 euros, or $60.50 at current exchange rates, per 50-ml. bottle. Three hundred of each scent will be sold.
In other Symrise news, Roberto Ascoli has taken over as commercial director of the firm's fine fragrances business. — Brid Costello
Tyler Talks Givenchy NEW YORK — Actress Liv Tyler recently made one of her first public appearances since the birth of her son, Milo, to celebrate the launches of Very Irresistible Givenchy for Men and Very Irresistible Givenchy Sensual Eau de Parfum.
"I feel a bit rusty for sure," she admitted, adding that she was a little nervous about speaking with reporters at the appearance. "What they say about your brain cells going out the window when you're pregnant really does happen, but after you give birth it's worse."
Clad in black Givenchy pumps, a black Prada cardigan and a pink Derek Lam skirt at the June 16 event, the bashful Tyler spoke about the experience of working for the first time with photographer Peter Lindbergh for the men's ad campaign. "I was really shy about my [post-pregnancy] body," she said, "but he just cinched me into a trenchcoat, I sucked it in and it worked out fine." Tyler added that Lindbergh finished off the shoot by taking a family portrait of the new mom with her husband, musician Royston Langdon, and Milo.She said that while she has felt pressure to lose her pregnancy weight, she's in no rush. "I wanted to really give myself to my son, not be obsessed with my body and getting back into shape."
Both new scents will be available at selected Macy's and Robinsons-May doors at the end of July, before rolling out into wider distribution in September. — Bryn Kenny
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion
Eighty degree temperatures and outdoor installations at the annual Art Basel Miami Beach called for bright, elevated beachwear. See more street style pictures on WWD.com. #theyarewearing #ABMB (📷: @lifeinreverie)
Following September’s emotional tribute to her brother Gianni, Donatella Versace wanted to bring the spring show’s deep sense of intimacy to her @versace_official pre-fall collection. Donatella found inspiration in Versace Palazzo in Milan and from Gianni’s opulent apartment. Archival patterns and new motifs were splashed on silk shirtdresses and fitted jersey frocks. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com. #wwdfashion
Demna Gvasalia continues to shake up the Paris fashion calendar — and experiment with new runway timetables for his @vetements_official brand. WWD has learned that Vetements plans to stage its next coed show for the fall 2018 season on January 19 during Men’s Fashion Week in the French capital. Details about the timing and venue have not been confirmed — stay tuned on WWD.com to catch the latest. #wwdnews (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
@zacposen's go-to holiday gift? Cookies! "I'll usually bake cookies and send them as a gift," said the designer, who recently released his cookbook "Cooking With Zac: Recipes from Rustic to Refined." Get the recipe for his Brown Butter-Chocolate Chip Cookies via link in bio 🍪🍪🍪 #wwdeye #cookingwithzac
For @monsemaison’s pre-fall 2018 collection, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim honed in on the brand’s many signatures — men’s wear, which was tweaked and feminized through deconstruction, proportion play and lots of bare shoulders. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
On Friday night, @yohjiyamamotoofficial received the Design for Asia Lifetime Achievement Award in Hong Kong. The 75-year-old designer has been celebrated for many years and is best known for his dark and avant-garde tailoring. “In my long career, in design, architecture, [I’ve been to] so many parties, this is the very first time that I have such a warm feeling, I really appreciate this,” Yamamoto said. #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)