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PARIS — While the recent Beyond Beauty trade show here remained as ever an important launch platform for emerging brands in France and elsewhere in Europe, as testified by the number of innovative young players present, the event’s organizers are also pushing the fair’s international aspect.
Beyond Beauty, which constitutes the Cosmeeting area for brands and the Creative area for suppliers, was held from Sept. 9 to 11 at the Porte de Versailles exhibition center, and welcomed 21,500 visitors, a 1.9 percent on-year gain. Exhibitor numbers were up 1 percent to 480.
International attendees accounted for 44 percent of traffic and saw a 15 percent increase, according to show organizer Beyond Beauty Events. The leading visitor countries were the U.K., China, Italy and Germany.
The rise of China in the attendee portfolio was partly thanks to the organizer’s recent opening of a bureau in Beijing and its forging partnerships with Chinese companies, it said. Some 100 Chinese buyers attended thanks to these.
Entering the Chinese market was the focus of several conferences during the three-day event. At one, Min Deng, editor in chief of Chinese publication Cosmetic Observer, revealed the latest market-performance figures and gave tips on market development to a standing-room-only audience.
While skin care is still the largest market category at 35.8 percent, Deng said, other segments like makeup and fragrance, which have less penetration countrywide, are now showing faster growth.
“Consumption and ideas about makeup have improved,” she said. “People born in the Eighties and Nineties have become economically independent and wear makeup every day.”
Fragrance, meanwhile, saw 16.3 percent growth in 2012, according to Deng. “Profits are very high [in fragrance],” she added. “We need to pay close attention to Chinese perfume development.”
Asia was also a source of inspiration within the BBLab section of the show, which was intended to stimulate product developers’ and marketers’ ideas, and this year focused on the men’s segment.
Within that space, consulting firm Innovation & Inspiration, which specializes in the Japanese, South Korean and Chinese markets, presented the latest innovations in men’s grooming gestures from Asia —increasingly a source of inspiration for product-development teams around the world.
These included a BB cream with a blue gel texture from L’Oréal Men launched earlier this year and products based on prawn or snail extracts from Rohto Pharmaceutical and It’s Skin, respectively.
Within the Zoom section of Cosmeeting, for emerging brands, Australian line Sin-Care, which offers a series of nine serums for different lifestyles — from smokers to sleep-deprived young mothers — was seeking European distribution after its successful launch in the U.S. earlier this year.
“We’re targeting department stores, perfumeries, spas and salons,” said national sales manager Eve Thompson. “It’s great for distributors, because it doesn’t compete with existing products on the market.”
French skin-care brand Neomist, meanwhile, was aiming to build renown in France and abroad for its spray-on cream serum. “It’s a new beauty gesture, and it needs explanation, so we are looking for high-end perfumeries and institutes,” explained marketing and export manager Juliette Terracol. “We already have distributors in Russia, Ukraine and the Middle East, but are not widely distributed in France. We’re in negotiations for Japan and China.”
Elsewhere at the show, U.S. nail-care brand Jessica was exhibiting prior to its French launch later this year through distributor Jacques Seban.
“We’ve had a lot of interest from stores like Sephora and Intermarché,” said a representative for the distributor, “but that is not our market. The product is more suitable for the professional market, because it is about nail care, not just about applying a product.”
A new fragrance section, The Perfume Zone, was intended to help niche fragrance brands and specialized suppliers stand out in the vast exhibition space.
This was where Aix-en-Provence, France-based Absolument Parfumeur was launching its new fragrance duo, La 13ème Note, inspired by culinary notes, and seeking distributors in Scandinavia, the U.K., Spain and the U.S., brand founder Pascal Rolland explained.
On the supplier side, metal parts manufacturer Metapack displayed its most technical realizations, like its limited-edition packaging for niche brand House of Sillage or its developments for By Kilian.
“We feel that the market is increasingly looking for novelty,” said sales manager Isaure de La Noue. “The share of high-end exclusive developments as a proportion of our revenues is growing.”