“It’s about a woman who’s tired of being a girl and she’s ready for the next step,” said Kabuki, lead artist for MAC Cosmetics, about the look backstage at Jeremy Scott. To create the dramatic art effect featured on the models’ temples, Kabuki used MAC Cromacake in Black to outline a lightning bolt, which he then paired with an emerald-hued exaggerated wing, using Cromacake in Landscape Green. Bold raspberry-hued lips, which were stained with MAC Magenta Lip Pencil, complemented the punk-inspired eyes. Skin was perfected and “gently contoured” with Matchmaster Foundation and Studio Finish Concealer.
The spiky, rock-chic hairstyle, imagined by Eugene Souleiman for Wella Professionals, was described as “‘Desperately Seeking Susan’ meets California Goth.” Souleiman, who affixed black wigs with fake shaved sides on the models, was inspired by late Eighties and early Nineties West Coast skater culture — also alluded to in Scott’s collection. To begin, Souleiman pulled hair tightly to the back center of the head. He then vertically folded it in layers, from bottom up, securing with bobby pins to ensure hair was tucked underneath the wig. The custom, precut black wigs were then fitted over the models’ heads and secured into place. To rough things up, Souleiman applied Wella Professionals Ocean Spritz Beach Texture Hairspray to create a “matte, pliable texture,” and hand blow-dried for a “haphazard” effect. He then applied Wella’s Create Character Texturizing Spray to keep hair at the top of the head in place and for the shorter pieces to stand straight up. Shimmer Delight Shine Spray completed the look.
Nails, done by Patricia Yankee, were meant to contrast the “playful macabre” of the collection. Meant to be both “beautiful and a tad tough, like the city girl wearing this collection,” models nails were coated in one of five bright shades: magenta, tangerine, yellow, lime or electric blue.