“The look is a Godard girl,” Romy Soleimani, who was working with MAC Cosmetics, said of the makeup backstage at Milly by Michelle Smith on Wednesday. “It’s a lined eye,” she added, but rather than using a black liner, Soleimani said, she went with a dark charcoal liner, which was “muted with a soft brown [eye shadow] called Wedge.”
The top, bottom and inside of the eye was lined, she said, adding that mascara was used on the top and bottom lashes, and a powder called Silver Dusk was applied on the upper temple and inner corner of the eye “for luminescence.”
Calling it a “lived-in look,” Soleimani also said it’s how makeup might look after it’s been partied in.
On the cheeks, Soleimani used a powder called Personal Style, which, she said, “looks nude but has dusty pink undertones.” The lips got one of two colors, depending on a particular model’s natural lip tone. One was a pale-beige, nude hue called Equality and the other was a nutty brown shade called Empowered.
Overall, it was a “satin sheen” look that was not too matte, said Soleimani. “It’s more like a mood, a character — more cinematic.”
Hairstylists Kevin Ryan and Frank Rizzieri, who own Rsession Tools, did “casual, low side ponytails” to go with the headbands presented during the Milly show.
“The pony is asymmetric, so it falls over one ear, just as if [the girl] didn’t get it perfect,” said Ryan, who added the look also featured “subtle” middle parts. “She’s a cool girl who’s run out the door and [she’s] not trying too hard [with her hair].”
To get the look, Ryan blew the hair dry while applying volumizing tonics, primarily from Aveda. He also used a host of Rsession Tools implements, like the two-pronged Nalu Waver to create waves and a tool called Root Control for touching up hairlines and roots. A straightening iron that doubles as a curling iron was also employed.
To keep hair away from the face while models had makeup applied, Ryan used the Rickycare brand’s No Crease hair clips, which were developed by Ricky’s NYC, the hip, New York-based beauty retailer. (The chain’s founder, Ricky Kenig, was backstage taking in all the action.)
Instead of traditional, tissue paper-lined clips, which can stick to the hair, according to Ryan, the No Crease hair clips were used “so fine hairs didn’t get in the way of the makeup.”
Models’ nails got a coating of a CND shade called Dark Ruby, which Roxanne Valinoti of CND described as a red-black color. “It’s high shine and a shorter, more tailored [nail] shape, so it’s less Goth looking,” she explained. “It’s chic [and] French inspired. It works well with the nude lip.”