Although autumn is right around the corner, it’s never too soon to think about spring—at least when it comes to beauty. On the runway, makeup artists and hairstylists plan to show looks that herald the return to vibrant hues and unapologetically big hair.
THE HAIR: For spring, hairstylists have fallen for texture—whether it’s waves, curls or a little frizz.
“Last season, the hair was slicked back or in a bun or it had that blunt, straight look, but this season, I’d like it to be a little bit more glamorous, soft and feminine with more waves,” says Jimmy Paul, an editorial stylist at Bumble and bumble. “I’m thinking about the Seventies as a big inspiration. I see the hair being a little more set, and when I think of the Seventies, I think of hot roller sets with that natural light wave, but with a little bit of glamour.”
Paul looked to Lauren Hutton’s hair in American Gigolo, along with Faye Dunaway’s wavy locks in the film Network, as inspiration. He notes that the pre-spring resort shows also mined the Seventies for inspiration, and that the trend will become more developed at the fashion shows this fall.
Antoinette Beenders, Aveda’s global creative director, also is looking to the late Seventies and early Eighties for inspiration. “The flat, natural curls are reminiscent of the Eighties since they home in on the four-step curling system,” says Beenders. “We’re looking for that girly curly vibe with that romantic curl.”
Guido Palau, a creative consultant for Redken who often partners with the professional hair care company during New York Fashion Week, says he’s hoping to bring back some old-fashioned techniques, such as waves and pads for height. “I’d like to give hair big shapes, almost like constructions,” explains Palau. “There’s such generalization in hair now, so it’s nice to question beauty and throw things into the mix to make people look at hair in a different way—almost challenging the eye and making it see the different shapes and textures.”
THE MAKEUP: Bright, unexpected colors will replace muted, demure shades of past spring seasons.
“For spring, we’re seeing lots of colors, and some that you wouldn’t think of as good taste on the face, like turquoise, green and fuchsia,” says Gordon Espinet, executive director of makeup artistry for MAC Cosmetics. “It’s become much more colorful and a little more brave in terms of color application and palette.”
Makeup artist Bobbi Brown plans to use raspberry-inspired shades to usher in the color revival. She’s designed a palette—featuring pink, blue and black raspberry undertones—to work with all skin tones. It’s an evolution from last season’s violet shades.
“What we’re offering is a little more colorful than usual,” says Brown. “It’s a combination of fresh, pretty and girly looks that are a little more brilliant than usual.”
Brown’s inspiration for the collection came from a scarf she bought during a trip to Provence, France, last year. “While most people look at flowers for inspiration, mine was a pink raspberry scarf, which I ended up wearing every day with whatever white or black shirt I had on,” says Brown. “The scarf started to reflect on my skin, so I started by creating a blush and then added the lipstick.”
Nars Cosmetics makeup artist James Boehmer forecasts a brewing interest in more structured eye shapes. “Last season, I noticed that if it wasn’t about the defined winged eyeliner with lots of contour—like a pale lid and darker crease—it was really soft, smoky or smudged with contour in the crease of the eye,” recalls Boehmer. “This season, I’d like to see more structure on the eye, making it a little more architectural.”
The Nars spring palette includes gold and chestnut eye shadows with rich, deep metallic undertones, and some aquatic silvery blue shades. In Boehmer’s view, blushed, healthy pink and red tones for the face will replace heavy bronzer. Matte lipsticks also are making a comeback. “For the face, it’s about a clean matte finish with matte lips that are not too glossy,” he says. “The only colors used for the lips are hyper-versions of the actual lip color, like a pink or beige that’s a little brighter in a matte texture.”