WWD.com/beauty-industry-news/beauty-features/bulgari-launch-takes-low-key-approach-1162911/
government-trade
government-trade

Bulgari Launch Takes Low-Key Approach

NEW YORK -- While Bulgari Parfums plots a wider distribution for its second fragrance, the company is maintaining its dignified style.<BR><BR>"We think that things are becoming a little too fast, easy and gimmicky in the fragrance business," said Arie...

NEW YORK — While Bulgari Parfums plots a wider distribution for its second fragrance, the company is maintaining its dignified style.

“We think that things are becoming a little too fast, easy and gimmicky in the fragrance business,” said Arie Kopelman, president of Chanel Inc. “Perhaps the best way to cut through the clutter is to be more quiet and tasteful about a launch.”

Chanel is the parent of Fragrances Exclusive, which recently signed on as the North American distributor of the Bulgari scents.

Jean Hoehn Zimmerman, senior vice president of sales and marketing for Chanel, said the new women’s scent, called Bulgari, is expected to be launched in about 40 U.S. doors in September, in addition to Bulgari’s eight stores in the U.S.

By contrast, Bulgari’s first scent, a unisex item called Eau ParfumÄe, was launched 18 months ago solely in Bulgari’s 35 stores worldwide.

“This will not be a mega-launch. It will be much more along the lines of the way a brand like Issey Miyake was introduced,” Zimmerman added, referring to L’Eau d’Issey, introduced last October in Saks Fifth Avenue only.

“We think with a fragrance such as this, it is more appropriate to send mailers to a store’s top 500 to 1,000 clients to invite them to come in and receive a deluxe sample, rather than to bombard anyone who walks in the door with a carded vial,” she continued.

While executives declined to divulge sales projections, industry sources estimate that the new scent could have wholesale volume of around $2 million in its first year.

Zimmerman noted that separate national print ad campaigns for both Bulgari fragrances will start in September, although the details have not been completed.

The new fragrance was introduced in February in Italy, where it is now in 400 doors. The brand is expected to finish rolling out to other major European markets in September, including 80 doors in Switzerland, 50 in Belgium, 600 in Germany, 20 in France, 100 in Spain and 50 in Poland, according to Gianluca Brozzetti, executive director of Bulgari Parfums, a subsidiary of the Rome-based jewelry firm.

The Bulgari fragrance line consists of a 0.5-oz. parfum for $150, a 0.25-oz. parfum spray for $110, a 3.4-oz. eau de parfum spray for $110, a 3.4-oz. eau de parfum pour for $100, a 1.7-oz. eau de parfum spray for $70 and a 1.7-oz. eau de parfum pour for $65.

Bulgari will also market limited-edition perfumes, priced at $850 for 0.65 ounces. According to Brozzetti, these items will be distributed year-round at the Bulgari stores and at special times in the other retail accounts.

The new Bulgari scent, created by International Flavors & Fragrances, has fresh top notes, including Brazilian rosewood, ylang-ylang, orange blossom and Italian bergamot. The flowery middle notes are jasmine tea, violet, mimosa and prelude rose. The base notes are a concentrate of Florentine iris, vetiver from Madagascar and musk.

Fragrances Exclusive has also slightly expanded distribution of Eau Parfumee. In addition to the Bulgari stores, the scent was launched last week in Bergdorf Goodman in New York and Los Angeles.

The first ad for Eau Parfumee in the U.S. was featured in the June 3 edition of the Sunday New York Times. Bulgari’s plans a bath line for the Bulgari scent, due next February or March, and a men’s fragrance, scheduled for fall 1995, Brozzetti said.