MILAN — After building its fragrance portfolio, high-end jewelry firm Bulgari will strengthen its presence on beauty counters with a new skin care line.
Fifteen years after launching its first scent, called Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert — which originally was a gift to the Roman jewelry firm's top clients — Bulgari will introduce its 15-stockkeeping-unit skin care line in October in a limited distribution network that will include 150 doors in Italy.
At a launch event here for the line, Bulgari's chief executive officer, Francesco Trapani, said the company's fragrance division has a new moniker, Bulgari Parfums et Cosmetiques. Founded in 1990, Bulgari's fragrance business now includes 19 scents, and last year, it reached revenues of 202 million euros, or $253.8 million at average exchange. Trapani added he was expecting double-digit growth for the division this year.
"We are the 10th-biggest, single-brand perfume business in the world. And we want the brand to become even stronger, so we believe this skin care launch will enable us to do that," said Trapani. "It's important to have not only fragrance, but a cosmetics line, to give the brand better visibility and build on the brand's image."
Bulgari's skin care line will be distributed exclusively in Italy until next year. Plans to roll it out to the U.S. and other selected countries next year have not yet been finalized.
Though Trapani refused to project sales for the skin care line's first year on the market, industry sources say the launch could net $4 million.
Taking direction from the company's lifeblood, gemology, the Bulgari skin care line's key ingredient is Bulgari Gem Essence, a formula containing extracts of precious stones such as sapphire, malachite, tourmaline and citrine.
To create the Bulgari Gem Essence, the gemstones are pulverized and liquefied and added to other active ingredients. The formula is awaiting an international patent. "We searched for something particular to put behind this line and we found it in this Bulgari Gem Essence — from the aspect that it is very close to the company's DNA," said Trapani. "But on the other hand, it is something that has been proven to be very effective as an ingredient."Jean Paul Marty, head of Bulgari's cosmetics research department in Switzerland, said the skin care line, which took five years to develop, harnesses the stones' benefits to the skin, which are said to include antiwrinkle properties and to promote the skin's radiance. "There's been a long story with gemstones, beauty, medicine and magic — Cleopatra used them in her beauty routine, so why not for cosmetics?" asked Marty.
Bulgari's skin care proposition includes the antiaging Preciéuse Line; the Lumière Line, which is meant to enhance the skin's radiance, and the Cleansing Line.
Marty expects the skin care line's star products to be Crème Preciéuse, which is aimed at smoothing wrinkles and priced at 210 euros, or $287 at current exchange, for 50 ml., as well as Serum De Lumière, a luminescing serum that's priced at 130 euros, or $177.65, for 30 ml.
Packaging for the line includes pale pink, blue and ivory glass containers with silver caps embossed with Bulgari. While Trapani confirmed Bulgari will build upon the skin care line, he said there are no plans to expand the brand's offering into color cosmetics, men's skin care or a spa line.
Further distribution plans call for the Bulgari skin care line to be carried at Bulgari hotels and resorts in Milan and Bali. Plans are also under way to construct a beauty cabine in the brand's 11-story Bulgari Ginza Tower in Tokyo, which is expected to open in December. The cabine will offer treatments that employ Bulgari's skin care line.
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion
Eighty degree temperatures and outdoor installations at the annual Art Basel Miami Beach called for bright, elevated beachwear. See more street style pictures on WWD.com. #theyarewearing #ABMB (📷: @lifeinreverie)
Following September’s emotional tribute to her brother Gianni, Donatella Versace wanted to bring the spring show’s deep sense of intimacy to her @versace_official pre-fall collection. Donatella found inspiration in Versace Palazzo in Milan and from Gianni’s opulent apartment. Archival patterns and new motifs were splashed on silk shirtdresses and fitted jersey frocks. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com. #wwdfashion
Demna Gvasalia continues to shake up the Paris fashion calendar — and experiment with new runway timetables for his @vetements_official brand. WWD has learned that Vetements plans to stage its next coed show for the fall 2018 season on January 19 during Men’s Fashion Week in the French capital. Details about the timing and venue have not been confirmed — stay tuned on WWD.com to catch the latest. #wwdnews (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
@zacposen's go-to holiday gift? Cookies! "I'll usually bake cookies and send them as a gift," said the designer, who recently released his cookbook "Cooking With Zac: Recipes from Rustic to Refined." Get the recipe for his Brown Butter-Chocolate Chip Cookies via link in bio 🍪🍪🍪 #wwdeye #cookingwithzac
For @monsemaison’s pre-fall 2018 collection, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim honed in on the brand’s many signatures — men’s wear, which was tweaked and feminized through deconstruction, proportion play and lots of bare shoulders. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
On Friday night, @yohjiyamamotoofficial received the Design for Asia Lifetime Achievement Award in Hong Kong. The 75-year-old designer has been celebrated for many years and is best known for his dark and avant-garde tailoring. “In my long career, in design, architecture, [I’ve been to] so many parties, this is the very first time that I have such a warm feeling, I really appreciate this,” Yamamoto said. #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)