By  on May 6, 2005

NEW YORK — Chanel is adding a little more Allure to its fragrance business this fall — with the hope of doubling business for one of its venerable scents.

The brand will release Allure Sensuelle, a flanker to its nine-year-old Allure scent, in late September in the U.S. and in spring 2006 in France. 

Chanel’s master perfumer, Jacques Polge, used Allure’s six “facets” — Oriental, fresh, floral, fruity, woody and spicy — as a guideline in creating Allure Sensuelle, noted Laurie Palma, senior vice president of fragrance and Internet marketing. Key ingredient additions — such as pink pepper and patchouli — make Allure Sensuelle a little younger and edgier, she said.

“It’s a fragrance which will bring a new facet to the Allure business,” said Palma, who believes that Allure Sensuelle will appeal both to a younger customer and to existing consumers. “The original Allure is a fresh, sexy scent; Allure Sensuelle is a spicy sexy scent. They complement each other very nicely — they’re from the same branch of the tree, but they have interesting differences.”

Polge, who also created Allure, crafted a juice that opens with an Oriental note that includes vanilla bourbon and amber patchouli and is proprietary to Chanel. While both elements are in the original, they have been intensified in this version, said Palma.

The fresh, floral and fruity facets of the original, which include bergamot, citrus, Turkish and Bulgarian Roses, Egyptian and Indian Jasmine, absolute of iris and Sicilian mandarin, have been slightly softened, Palma explained. The woody aspect is characterized by Haitian vetiver, while the new Solar Spice addition is a combination of incense and pink pepper. The bottle is Allure’s signature glass rectangle with a burgundy cap and lettering.

“Allure has been very successful globally, and we believe Allure Sensuelle will reenergize the brand,” said Palma. While she declined to comment on projected sales or advertising spending, industry sources estimated that Allure Sensuelle could do $15 million at retail in its first year on counter in the U.S. and that about $3 million would be spent on advertising and promotion in the U.S. in that period. Chanel’s fragrance distribution in the U.S. is currently about 3,000 doors. Sources also estimated that the original Allure did $15 million at retail in 2004.

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