NEW YORK — Sylvie Chantecaille is slowly painting the globe.

On Sept. 22 her fledgling beauty brand, Chantecaille Beaute, will go on sale at Seibu in Hong Kong, and in January Chantecaille expects to open a 2,000-square-foot spa in Taipei, Taiwan. She also is headed into talks with Isetan about entering the Japanese market. A freestanding store in Manila, is a possibility by Christmas, she added. Chantecaille had opened a 400-square-foot shop within Mitsukoshi in Taipei this spring, as well as a spa in the U.K.’s Fenwick.

“It’s key to have our place,” she said. “That’s why we rehearsed with the spas.”

Existing distribution includes five Joyce doors in Hong Kong; Printemps in Paris; Quartier 206 in Berlin; 31 doors in the U.K, primarily Space NK; assorted perfumeries, and an assortment of 33 specialty doors in the U.S. — Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman and Barneys New York — and independent perfumeries.

Chantecaille also does business with independents in Europe, such as in Dublin and Athens. But she is looking for fresh opportunities and has her eye on seven independent perfumeries in France, in places like Cannes, Lille, Aix-en-Provence and Bordeaux. But before making that move, she plans on establishing a relationship with Bon Marché.

In addition, she also has plans to expand into Frankfurt and other German markets.

Chantecaille, who was one of the founding executives of the Prescriptives division at the Estée Lauder Cos., founded her eponymous company in 1997 with the launch of three fragrances. Aided by her daughter Olivia, who is the creative director, Chantecaille expanded the brand into cosmetics a year later. A line of skin care products, inspired by Chantecaille’s passion for aromatherapy and Chinese medicine, made its debut in October 2000.

The skin care collection consisted of a group of seven products, mostly aimed at problem-solving. Then, early this year, Chantecaille launched her most high tech product — Biodynamic Lifting Cream, which incorporates a long list of botanical ingredients and is priced at $290 for a 1.7-oz. jar.

Chantecaille had hoped the new cream would “get us to the next level” and that appears to have happened. Chantecaille did not discuss numbers, but the first results to roll in showed that 800 jars were sold at Joyce in the three weeks before Christmas. The original projection was for a retail volume of $2 million. The actual total was reportedly $3.5 million.Sales of the new cream, plus volume generated by the Fenwick spa, elevated the entire Chantecaille business to $18 million at retail.

Chantecaille did say that the Biodynamic introduction gave skin care a more significant share of the business. Another big chunk is the foundation business. Skin care commands as much as 37 percent of the business, she said. Treatment and foundation added together generate 75 percent of the brand’s volume, with color and fragrance making up the rest.

As a follow-up to the Biodynamic launch, Chantecaille is now shipping the second high tech product in the series, Stress Repair Concentrate. It is merchandised as an eye cream, because the product is designed for use in areas of facial stress, such as around the eyes. Priced at $170 for 15 ml., the new cream is already in distribution in Asia. It will be launched next month in the U.S. and the U.K.

This also has been a year of change for Chantecaille. The business has been relocated to new offices at 584 Broadway from its former digs on Mott Street here, and Chantecaille has added another family member to the organization: Her other daughter, Alexandra, is now the account executive for the East Coast.

— Pete Born

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