Deciem — The Abnormal Beauty Company — certainly does not create or market products in a traditional way, especially per beauty industry standards.An umbrella company covering 10 skin and hair brands, Deciem preaches radical transparency and has amassed a cult customer following in doing so — and about $120 million to $150 million in retail sales last year, a number projected to double or possibly triple in 2018, according to the company’s founder and co-chief executive officer Brandon Truaxe. The Ordinary alone sold over 8 million units — “far beyond capacity,” according to co-ceo Nicola Kilner. The brand is continuing to grow in the U.S. — last month it announced its entry into the market here with a launch in Sephora and an announcement that it would open several standalone stores. Six are expected to open in New York by this summer.In keeping with its radically transparent ethos, Deciem has bypassed traditional marketing and advertising strategies in favor of communicating directly with consumers via Instagram. Most recently, Truaxe took over the company’s account himself, announcing he was trading his chief executive title for that of “worker.”The company’s mentality most notably extends to pricing — Deciem’s The Ordinary brand sells skin care in its most basic ingredient form at the lowest possible prices. For instance, a Lactic Acid 10 percent plus Hyaluronic Acid solution retails on the company’s website for $6.79. Yet despite its low pricing, Deciem still considers itself a brand in the luxury category — and it has the Luxury Briefing Award to prove it.“Luxury shouldn’t have to be about price point anymore, luxury should be about authenticity [and quality],” said Kilner. “In the past, [luxury] was more about people being interested in marble and gold, and now you go into some [luxury] stores and it’s exposed brick walls. Just a generational thing, the definition of luxury is changing.”But how exactly are The Ordinary’s prices so cheap?“The ingredients in The Ordinary have been around for quite a long time, and there’s a few benefits to that,” said Kilner. “We don’t have to do as much testing in terms of the consumer end results. Just like in medicine, once the efficacy and result is proven and once it goes through stability testing, we don’t have to go through that expense because people know [how] retinols and retinoids are going to benefit their skin. The innovation around the price point is the marketing that we need — because so many people manufacture [these ingredients] around the world, effectively those [wholesale] prices are more affordable for us and we pass that on to the consumer.”Eschewing vague marketing terms like “glow” and “purify” in favor of naming products after the primary ingredient that is in them — i.e. Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate 10 Percent and 100 Percent Cold-Pressed Virgin Marula Oil — has been an effective marketing tool, a way for Deciem to appeal to Millennial consumers who want to be hyper-educated in the skin-care space. It’s especially a marketing boon when those Millennial consumers turn around and share their knowledge on social media. “When I talk to my peers, in the past they didn’t feel as compelled to post about a hocus pocus serum that had a more generic name. They like to sound educating by saying, “Oh, I’m using the Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate.”Deciem relies on its consumers — not influencers — to propel conversation around the brand on social media. Kilner noted one fan group — The Ordinary Chat Room — on Facebook has 28,000 members. She herself is a member — albeit a silent one.The company has no paid influencer marketing strategy. It does send product to influencers — when it has the stock — but it has yet to forge any kind of paid partnership. Kilner said Deciem does not plan to ever pay influencers. “When it comes to skin care, trust is so important and we never want to have an influencers where their audience and our audience thinks they’re only saying good things because there’s been a financial exchange,” said Kilner, who said that negative feedback has a purpose too. “We’re just as happy to have someone say, ‘I don’t like this product,’ because the thing about skin care is that not every product and ingredient is for everyone. That’s what’s nice about The Ordinary is that people now are a lot more familiar with ingredients, some people’s skin like retinol and some people’s skin like Vitamin C. It’s allowing people to differentiate more.”
In honor the @CFDA’s announcement of @iamnaomicampbell receiving the Fashion Icon Award at the 2018 #CFDAAwards, which will take place on June 4, here’s a #tbt of the supermodel on @michaelkors’ runway in 1991. #wwdfashion #wwdarchive (📷: George Chinsee)
“I was making the guacamole when my scout saw me,” says model @stuckinteenage on being discovered just six months ago while working at @chipotlemexicangrill. Since then Williams has signed with @dnamodels, walked in her first show at @calvinklein and landed on the cover of @vogueitalia – a high point of any model’s career. To read @lisajlockwood’s full interview with the model on her experiences thus far, head to WWD.com – link in bio. (📷: George Chinsee)
“I love the idea of dialogue, period. It’s where I’ve always gotten my inspiration from: hearing other women speak, their journeys and their paths,” said @hereisgina, who delivered the keynote speech during @sxsw for @createcultivate in partnership with @fossil. For her two panels, Rodriguez chose female empowering, female-led and female entrepreneurs to focus on. Head to WWD.com to read more about her thoughts on Time’s Up, growing up in a family of women and why we “need a girls’ club.” #wwdeye #sxsw (📷: @jgreenery)
Leading luxury brand are shaking things up to keep up with streetwear. Case in point: the arrival of @mrkimjones as artistic director of @diorhomme. Jones, who succeeds @Kris_Van_Assche, is seen as one of the handful of designers who can actually straddle the luxury and streetwear worlds — which could lead to even more changes at established brands. What could this mean for the rest of the menswear landscape? Head to WWD.com to find out what experts predict #wwdfashion (📷: @franckmura)
“It’s like buying groceries. You’re going to buy the best mango, the best mozzarella, the best things. You have to, or others are going to take it all,” said @gabrielahearst on why she uses only the finest fabrics. Last week, Hearst received her first @cfda nomination for Womenswear Designer of the Year, and earlier this month she opened a permanent showroom in Paris. To read @jessiredale’s interview with the designer and find out why this is shaping up to be a big year for her, head to WWD.com. #wwdfashion (📷: @francoisgoize)
“It’s an interesting thing, playing a younger version of your mother. It’s an interesting concept. I adore my mom and love her in every capacity, but it was just something that had never crossed my mind,” says @anniemstarke on playing a young Joan Castleman in “The Wife.” The same role will be played by her mother Glenn Close. Read more about her growing up in the film industry as the daughter of producer John H. Starke and Close and what she has planned for the future #wwdeye (📷: @nataliamantini)
@asics is launching a new streetwear sneaker inspired by its latest ambassador, @steveaoki. The Hyper-Kenzen x Aoki, which will launch at @footlocker stores exclusively tomorrow, is a slip-on style that incorporates the brand’s proprietary Gel technology through beads integrated into the midsole for comfort and endurance. Read the full story on WWD.com.