Jerry Wenker is entering new territory at Dermalogica.
The health care industry veteran and former president of KV Pharmaceutical has joined husband-and-wife founders and co-chief executive officers Jane and Raymond Wurwand at the helm of the California company known for face-mapping skin analysis and gray and white packaging. Wenker is the first person at Dermalogica to fill the role of president and chief operating officer.
"All three of us are very aware that this action represents a proactive move to try to avoid the founders' trap, where the skills and experiences of the founders really are not the same as where they [need to be] to take it to the next level," said Wenker. "Jane and Ray have done an incredible job leading the organization. The decision with this move is that now is the time to pass the baton."
Still, the Wurwands, majority stakeholders of the $100 million-plus, privately held company, have no plans to exit Dermalogica, and Wenker will report to them. However, they are ceding operational control to concentrate on international expansion and product development. Already, as Jane Wurwand noted, Dermalogica employees in the Carson, Calif., headquarters no longer report on an everyday basis to her and her husband.
"Ray and I have been leading the company for over 20 years. No matter how much we think we are innovative, we are historians. That is not conducive to growth," said Wurwand. "Most entrepreneurs usually stay too long at the party — at the head — and they end up drowning in their success and sell. We didn't want to do that. We wanted to position the company so it would be focused on growth."
For the last several years, Wenker said Dermalogica's revenues have increased each year by 20 percent. The company's revenues are principally generated in three areas: International Dermal Institute facilities, where students pay an average of $110 a day to attend postgraduate classes to become skin therapists; Dermalogica products, available at 5,000 professional skin care outlets such as salons and spas, and branded skin treatment centers, including the 1,660-square-foot flagship in Santa Monica, Calif., that opened in 2004.
In 1983, the Wurwands established the first International Dermal Institute in Los Angeles, and Dermalogica skin care products were introduced three years later. The IDI concept has since expanded to 19 facilities in the U.S. and 17 abroad. Last year, Dermalogica began a push into China with a Beijing institute; a Shanghai location is slated to launch this fall. This spring, Dermalogica bowed in South America and India with facilities in Buenos Aires and Mumbai. The company is set to enter Poland next week. Third parties operate retail skin treatment centers in Tokyo, London, Berlin, Beijing and other select foreign cities."Our goal is to accelerate growth even faster than we have done today. Doing exactly what we have done in the past is not going to be satisfactory for us," said Wenker. In addition to furthering the company's global penetration, he added, "we have an opportunity to make the United States a bigger part of our business. It is the biggest market and has a great understanding of skin health." Revenues are currently split evenly between the company's foreign and domestic business.
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye
“It’s passion that helps get anybody to a certain point and it’s what’s propelled me,” said Kith founder @ronniefieg, one of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables who are changing the face of retail, fashion and beauty. Fieg, who opened a Manhattan flagship on October 7, began his career at age 13 as a stock boy and salesman for footwear chain David Z. “I think staying true to [my] beliefs, hard work and passion have gotten me to where [Kith] is today.” See the rest of the 40 at WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
25-year-old @samweaving is about to break out this fall, starring in Netflix’s horror film “The Babysitter,” fittingly out today on Friday the 13th. That’s not the only place you’ll be seeing her, though — Weaving’s got a role Showtime’s “SMILF” and another alongside Frances McDormand and Woody Harrelson in “Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri.” Though she’s got a full plate at the moment, there’s one role she’s got her eye on: Marilyn Monroe. “I’m a little too young at the moment, but it’s on my bucket list,” the actress told WWD (📷: @dandoperalski) #wwdeye
BFF's Poppy Jamie and Suki Waterhouse celebrated the launch of their bag line Pop x Suki at Nordstrom last night. "The line is really about our friendship, and how we are so different but complement each other," said Waterhouse. 👯 (📷: Katie Jones) #wwdeye
After designing the new @louisvuitton and @bulgariofficial flagships and a @chanelofficial boutique opening in Japan, @petermarinoarchitect has another project on his plate: The Lobster Club. Located in the Seagram Building, it’s the famed architect’s first restaurant project in New York, serving up modern Japanese brasserie-style cuisine. Bronze hues, bespoke material detailing, blush and chartreuse tones and a heavy emphasis on Picasso can be seen throughout. Mark your calendars for Nov. 1 for the much-anticipated opening. (📷: @clint_spaulding) #wwdeye
Did you know: @carlychaikin of "Mr. Robot" has been painting for about a decade? The actress, who plays Darlene on the show, is a self-taught artist who lists Salvador Dalí and Chuck Close as some of her idols. Chaikin told WWD that painting is a form of meditation for her — A much-needed one given the intensity of "Mr. Robot." See a piece Chaikin is working on at WWD.com (📷: @jilliansollazzo) #wwdeye