Antonin Carreau, global category management director for beauty at Dufry, which generates annual sales of $7.95 billion, discussed business with WWD while at the recent Tax Free World Association convention.WWD: How has the year been for the company and its beauty activity?Antonin Carreau: It's been fantastic. Last year at the same moment we were recovering from a first half that was negative, we were seeing some changes in the trends. It has accelerated this year. Out of 70 markets where we operate, all are positive, most markets are double-digit positive, if not more, whatever the region. We only have two markets that are flattish.WWD: What is driving the growth?A.C.: The growth comes from traffic — in quantity and quality — from emerging markets that have recovered from monetary currency crises; phenomenal growth in the U.K., post-Brexit and after the anniversary of Brexit, a very slight deceleration only on the trend but [it keeps] growing; Chinese, across the board. In beauty: specific trends behind all what is high-end in perfume, in skin care and new makeup trends. And again, behind that is predominantly the Chinese consumer.WWD: Do you see this continuing?A.C.: The year is more than secured, so we are very confident. We are confident in a strong year next year, as well.WWD: What are the biggest challenges?A.C.: From a category standpoint…it's about reviewing details and making audits on our assortment and centralizing all of the data to be able to put in place a scientific approach to our assortment management. We have [had] from a brand standpoint an assortment that is too large, essentially due to local brands. And that requires some cleaning. [It is] allowing us to be more agile and improve our speed-to-market.WWD: What is a key project for Dufry?A.C.: It's what we call the new generation of store, which we have started with Madrid and Melbourne, and are now rolling out in Zurich. [It is about] putting in place a store that allows for more and better engagement with our passengers.The objective is to convert much more of the consumers who are browsing, interested in our categories, but not buying. We have good knowledge, thanks to our insight analysis in 40 of our main airports about the reasons why those passengers are not buying and why.WWD: How are these stores different?A.C.: [Their digitalization includes] supporting new communication approaches from a brand standpoint, from a promotional standpoint, from a product innovation standpoint, from a conceptual standpoint. It's about providing our staff with equipment — like iPads — where they have access to product information and selling tips to deal with the passengers.It's about connecting and digital CRM with the passengers before their trip, during their trip, after their trip. It's about the deployment of the Red loyalty program, with a database that is progressing rapidly and becoming significant. We believe that next year [it] will be six times bigger.It's about telling stories, executing promotions, announcing exclusives, prelaunches, engaging with different nationalities, different languages. So it's bringing agility and flexibility into the store and being very reactive, thanks to the support and the partnership with brands.
“I design by visualization. I see things, and most of the time they’re not practical to actually make, and what I’ve found here, it’s like anything’s possible. This is the first time that I’ve made a sole unit in two months. That process usually would take six, so here’s a difference,” said @virgilabloh of the first sneaker sample he created for @louisvuitton, pictured here. Abloh spoke to WWD about his debut collection for Louis Vuitton, creating @kendalljenner’s #metgala outfit and redefining the heritage brand. Read the full story on WWD.com. #wwdfashion (📷: @alfredo_piola)
The world’s largest producer of denim @iskodenim is sharing the strategy behind its product development process. Read our full interview with ISKO’s product development manager Baris Ozden on the company’s extensive research practices, upcoming denim trends and the latest material innovations on WWD.com. #iskodenim
“I genuinely fell in love with water, I fell in love with Fiji, I fell in love with the whole life that we lived for those few months,” says @mrsamclaflin of filming for his new movie “Adrift” with @shailenewoodley. The 31-year-old actor spoke with WWD about his upcoming projects, meeting Jamie Dornan and working with co-star Woodley. #wwdeye (📷: @jamstoker)
3 years ago, fans of the late singer Aaliyah started calling for a collaboration with @maccosmetics. With the strength of social media — including mock ups of products — 25,000 people signed a Change.org petition for a limited-edition collection, and MAC couldn’t ignore the buzz. Tomorrow, MAC will unveil MAC x Aaliyah, a tribute to the singer who passed away nearly 17 years ago. Head to our stories to preview the new collection, which was worked on by Aaliyah’s family and inspired directly by her makeup bag. #wwdbeauty
Artistic director @clarewaightkeller will be dedicating @givenchyofficial’s fall 2018 couture show in Paris on July 1 to house founder Hubert de Givenchy, who passed away in March at age 91. Givenchy said the collection would be “an homage to his iconic creations, technique, and personal lexicon” and a “celebration of his timeless elegance and grace.” Head to WWD.com to read more. #wwdfashion (📷: Delphine Achard)
La Double J made a name for itself with its vintage-inspired prints, but for resort, designer JJ Martin has ventured into new territory: enter rich jewel toned solids and decadent embellishment, in the form of appliqués, crystals and sequins. #wwdfashion #resort19 #ladoublej
This Just In: J. Crew Group has named Johanna Uurasjarvi as its chief design officer.
Uurasjarvi succeeds Somsack Sikhounmuong, who left the company last September. Tap the link in bio for the full report. #wwdnews
“She came into my hotel room and she was like, ‘I have Chanel and Christian Dior.’ She was like, ‘Chanel likes you.’ And I was like, ‘I’m going to start crying,’” breakout star Maddie Hasson tells WWD of her styling sessions Molly Dickson. “I really like classic, elegant things. I love the way Anna Wintour dresses.” Read more about Hasson’s role in @impulseseries on wwd.com. (📸: @jgreenery ) #wwdeye
@virgilabloh revealed he's working with Australian stylist and
Vogue Australia fashion director @christinecentenera for his debut @louisvuitton men's collection, which will be presented in Paris on June 21. Centenera met Abloh while both working with Kanye West, where she consulted on his all his runway collections since his debut spring 2012 women's wear show. Read the full story on WWD.com. #wwdfashion #wwdnews (📷: @asussmanphoto)