Antonin Carreau, global category management director for beauty at Dufry, which generates annual sales of $7.95 billion, discussed business with WWD while at the recent Tax Free World Association convention.WWD:How has the year been for the company and its beauty activity?Antonin Carreau: It's been fantastic. Last year at the same moment we were recovering from a first half that was negative, we were seeing some changes in the trends. It has accelerated this year. Out of 70 markets where we operate, all are positive, most markets are double-digit positive, if not more, whatever the region. We only have two markets that are flattish.WWD: What is driving the growth?A.C.: The growth comes from traffic — in quantity and quality — from emerging markets that have recovered from monetary currency crises; phenomenal growth in the U.K., post-Brexit and after the anniversary of Brexit, a very slight deceleration only on the trend but [it keeps] growing; Chinese, across the board. In beauty: specific trends behind all what is high-end in perfume, in skin care and new makeup trends. And again, behind that is predominantly the Chinese consumer.WWD: Do you see this continuing?A.C.: The year is more than secured, so we are very confident. We are confident in a strong year next year, as well.WWD: What are the biggest challenges?A.C.: From a category standpoint…it's about reviewing details and making audits on our assortment and centralizing all of the data to be able to put in place a scientific approach to our assortment management. We have [had] from a brand standpoint an assortment that is too large, essentially due to local brands. And that requires some cleaning. [It is] allowing us to be more agile and improve our speed-to-market.WWD: What is a key project for Dufry?A.C.: It's what we call the new generation of store, which we have started with Madrid and Melbourne, and are now rolling out in Zurich. [It is about] putting in place a store that allows for more and better engagement with our passengers.The objective is to convert much more of the consumers who are browsing, interested in our categories, but not buying. We have good knowledge, thanks to our insight analysis in 40 of our main airports about the reasons why those passengers are not buying and why.WWD: How are these stores different?A.C.: [Their digitalization includes] supporting new communication approaches from a brand standpoint, from a promotional standpoint, from a product innovation standpoint, from a conceptual standpoint. It's about providing our staff with equipment — like iPads — where they have access to product information and selling tips to deal with the passengers.It's about connecting and digital CRM with the passengers before their trip, during their trip, after their trip. It's about the deployment of the Red loyalty program, with a database that is progressing rapidly and becoming significant. We believe that next year [it] will be six times bigger.It's about telling stories, executing promotions, announcing exclusives, prelaunches, engaging with different nationalities, different languages. So it's bringing agility and flexibility into the store and being very reactive, thanks to the support and the partnership with brands.
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)