Deb Henretta of Procter & Gamble didn’t pull any punches in her opening address at the 2013 WWD Beauty Summit. “We have to step it up and innovate at the speed of digital,” she declared of the collective beauty industry, “lest we risk becoming the Polaroid camera, the analogue telephone or the business pager of our industry.”
They were powerful words, particularly coming from the group president of beauty at the world’s third-largest manufacturer of personal-care products, a clear call for revolution in an industry that can hold “too tightly to traditions,” as Henretta eloquently phrased it.
Her remarks led me to think about the future of beauty—What are the defining characteristics of the consumers who will replace the Baby Boomers as a critical demographic? How quickly are emerging markets evolving and what do marketers need to do today to prepare? What will beauty products even look like in 10 years time, as technology continues to redefine every aspect of our lives?—and hence to the theme of this issue, Beauty 2020.
We’ve tried to answer many of those questions, starting with an in-depth analysis of Millennials in “Express Yourself.” By 2020, Millennials will double in importance in terms of the spend they control, a fact already recognized by marketers like Shiseido, which is launching a skin-care brand specifically targeted to the cohort, and MAC, which will open a new, youth-oriented store format in November.
In terms of the future, the “where” is as interesting as the “who.” The importance of China’s tier-three, -four and -five cities is increasing as rapidly as their exploding populations—400 million people will be urbanized by 2025—but the competitive landscape is markedly different, as Shanghai-based writer Casey Hall reveals in “Urban Planning.” Meanwhile, in India, the architect of Reliance Retail Ltd.’s beauty strategy, Vivek Bali, sat down with writer Mayu Saini for a frank conversation about what international brands must do to realize the growth potential inherent in the development of the country.
And we couldn’t forget the “what” either—namely, products. For “Imagination Nation,” Molly Prior canvassed leading futurists and discovered bold ideas like edimetics and energy harvesting that could redefine our industry. Henretta will doubtless be championing their development every step of the way.
There'll be no rest for those headed to Europe for men's, as Paris just closed the gap with Milan. According to a provisional calendar released by the Chambre Syndicale, Paris Men's Week will now open a day earlier on January 16. See new highlights on the official lineup on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
BREAKING: Jonathan Saunders is leaving @DVF. The designer has resigned from his position as chief creative officer of Diane von Furstenberg, the company said in a statement on Friday. At the time of his hire, von Furstenberg said Saunders’ arrival symbolized and facilitated her stepping back from the day-to-day duties that occupy the work of a full-time creative director. The British designer joined DVF in May 2016 and was in charge of all product categories. #wwdnews
For @versace_official’s spring ad campaign, the brand emphasized the archival prints from the spring tribute collection dedicated to the late Gianni Versace. Closing out the show were five of Gianni’s favorite models: Cindy, Naomi, Carla, Helena, and Claudia. Bowing on December 18, the new campaign is yet another tribute to supermodel-dom as the images by Steven Meisel are fronted by @iamnaomicampbell, @cturlington, @gisele and more. #wwdfashion
Four-time Oscar-nominated actress Annette Bening has been waiting 20 years to play Gloria Graham in "Film Stars Don't Die in Liverpool," which will be released on December 29. The movie about Graham – a Hollywood star known for her controversial relationship with a younger Englishman named Peter Turner – is based off a memoir Turned wrote. "She felt vulnerable to him, because she loved him, she really did love him. And anyone that we really truly are in love with, we re vulnerable to in a very deep way," said Bening. Read our full interview with the modern icon of an actress on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @ninebagatelles; Styled by @cristinaehrlich)
The crisp white button down: a staple that can be dressed up or down and accessorized throughout the decades. Here, on a Art Basel-goer in 2017 on the left and on the iconic Audrey Hepburn in “Roman Holiday” in 1953 on the right. #tbt #wwdfashion (📷: Andrew Morales)
Known for her work with @victoriassecret, 25-year-old model @georgiafowler is raising her profile in Hollywood. Fowler stars in @vincecamuto’s holiday campaign, which launched in partnership with “Pitch Perfect 3.” “Almost every shoot with Vince Camuto, I’ve had to face a fear…It was definitely a challenge. I’m so grateful for it, though. I’ve always wanted to be a pop star, so that was the perfect chance,” Fowler said. Head to WWD.com to read about Fowler’s experience modeling, including at the #VSFashionShow, and her relationship with Nick Jonas. #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
EXCLUSIVE: Huda Kattan just became the first beauty influencer to land a major beauty deal. Kattan's business, @hudabeauty, has received a minority investment from private equity firm TSG Consumer Partners. The brand, which industry sources say is on track to do $200 million in retail sales for 2017, will receive support on product, retail and geographic expansion through the deal. Get all the details on the deal and read @_a_collins' interview with Kattan on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdbeauty #wwdnews
Peruvian model @juanaburga_official – who is known for walking the runways of @rodarte, @viviennewestwood and @torybuch – is making the move to the big screen with drama “Los Últimos.” The film premiered in Argentina in November and arrives in the U.S. and Europe in 2018. On making the switch from modeling to acting, Burga told WWD: “It’s a completely different thing – a lot of people think it’s similar or try to connect things, especially like getting used to the camera or being looked at all the time or playing these different characrers, but film is a completely different story.” #wwdeye (📷: @jgreenery)
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)