Not too long ago, in the rarefied world of high fashion, a model was either art or commerce. The former was often edgy, androgynous, difficult for the general public to relate to and the darling of fashion editors and designers; the latter, curvy, classically beautiful and sexy, a staple of Victoria's Secret and the Sports Illustrated swimsuit issue. Then, during the fall collections shown last spring, the two worlds collided. Uberdirectional designers like Marc Jacobs and Miuccia Prada, designers who are considered the harbingers for those in the know, sent down their catwalk a parade of models who are as celebrated for their curves as they are for their cool factor. Their presence signaled a distinct shift in the prevailing fashion winds. Gone was the minimalist, androgynous aesthetic that has dominated in the recent past, replaced by a return to a sexy, sophisticated femininity and all that it implies—big hair, bold makeup, bodacious curves.
Beauty companies have responded in like. For fall, beauty—with a capital B—is back. Dramatic makeup, statement-making hair, ultrafeminine fragrances—these are the elements that feel most au courant now. As Madonna Badger says in "The Return of the Bombshell," "Who wants to see a depressing skinny girl with no boobs who looks like a boy? There is a luxury in voluptuousness." This issue, our annual guide to fall's most important products and trends, is chock full of just that.
Take "Cold Fusion" which features a breakdown of the season's seven key product trends. From sultry makeup to skin care that sounds as if it came straight out of a sci-fi novel, pop-culture-infused products to items that allow users to replicate cutting-edge salon and dermatological services in the privacy of their bathrooms, these are the products that will send even the most jaded beauty maven rushing to stores—and seduce her to open her wallet.
After all, who doesn't love the thrill of discovering something new? For the past 20 years, the beauty business has thrived thanks to entrepreneurially minded individuals who have expanded the industry's collective universe — to wit, makeup-artist brands, dermatological skin care, artisanal fragrances, professional hair care. But where retailers once enthusiastically embraced independent brands, today there is a wariness when it comes to taking on the untested. As beauty financial editor Molly Prior was told while reporting "The Founders' Club," "There is no rising tide anymore for entrepreneurs."
Color cosmetics counters are experiencing a rising tide, though, thanks to big-name makeup artists like Tom Pecheux, Dick Page, Peter Philips and Aaron de Mey, who develop products and shade stories for Estée Lauder, Shiseido, Chanel and Lancôme, respectively. In "Beauty Incognito," we sent our undercover shoppers out to test the makeup artists'visions, and determine how well they translate from the magazine page to the makeup counter. The results were resoundingly positive—in fact, the only bad news for our reporters was that so many of the products were sold out. All hail the return to beauty!
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty