As we were putting together this, our first fragrance issue, I asked Ron Robinson, the founder of BeautyStat.com, to canvas his members and ask them what drives their fragrance purchases. While some talked about buying into the gestalt of a specific brand or celebrity and others talked about the appeal of the bottle, most of the answers centered around the emotional appeal of scent. “What makes me buy a fragrance is, of course, how it smells, but more so how it makes me feel,” said Carol H. “I feel better about myself when I smell good. I love trying new fragrances and it’s a pick-me-up, especially if I’m not having a good day,” wrote Dana K. A contributor named MJ wrote: “To me, fragrances are very evocative of specific times and places, even people. I like to get a new fragrance to embody an event or time of my life. Whenever I smell that scent, I’m transported in time to the special moment.”
No one is better at creating compelling stories around fragrance franchises than this issue’s cover subject, Coty chief executive officer Bernd Beetz. Over the past decade, he has transformed Coty into a fragrance powerhouse by creating a three-pronged strategy consisting of celebrity, designer and lifestyle brands. Now Beetz has set his sights on dominating in skin care and makeup as well, with the goal of becoming a top-five beauty company by 2015. As Molly Prior reports in “The Player” on page 38, those who know the ubercompetitive executive say he is more than up to the challenge. To those companies already in the top five, including Beetz’s friend and tennis partner, Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. chief executive officer Fabrizio Freda: Consider yourself warned!
No one knows better than Beetz the challenges of the U.S. fragrance market, but as Pete Born writes in “The Age of Ambivalence” on page 30, the picture is growing rosier. A year of strong launches has helped propel sales to almost prerecession levels. Now, the question is whether marketers can reestablish the category’s relevance with a generation of young consumers who aren’t predisposed toward wearing scent.
Holding equal amounts of promise and challenge is Brazil. On the one side, you have a fast-growing middle-class population with an inherent affinity for beauty, particularly scent. On the other, you have punishingly high duties, an underdeveloped infrastructure and retail network and an extraordinarily competitive local landscape, as I discovered while reporting “The Power Within” on page 34. Find out what the future holds for international brands eager to make inroads in this developing nation.
What is a fragrance issue without an ode to the FiFi’s? As the Fragrance Foundation’s annual awards head back to Lincoln Center on May 22, we present our first insider’s guide to the event. Curious about what some of beauty’s most stylish executives are planning on wearing? Eager to plot the easiest route for your driver? Wondering what the industry’s favorite wordsmith, Procter & Gamble’s Don Loftus, might advise when it comes to making acceptance speeches? You’ll fi nd all of that and much more starting on page 18. Just as the best fragrances aim to transport, so, too, do we with each issue of WWD Beauty Inc. Drop me a line at firstname.lastname@example.org and let me know how we’re doing.
“What he has done at Vuitton is really exceptional,” said @gameofthrones’ actress Gwendoline Christie on @mrkimjones’ final show for @louisvuitton. “He has rebooted luxury in terms of making it commercial, viable and contemporary. And most importantly artistic. He has never compromised his artistic vision for the sake of commodity.” (📷: @zefashioninsider)
After seeing a demand for men’s wear from its customers, British contemporary women’s wear label @ariesarise has added a men’s wear component and will launch a unisex collection with @mrporterlive. The 20-piece collection includes jackets, denim, logo T-shirts and more with deconstructed ‘90s vibes. Set to launch on January 18, you can shop the pieces on Aries’ website and on mrporter.com. #wwdfashion
“And so spending so much time with a character who thinks like that, inevitability you try and analyze yourself and go back and think about your own demons and dark chapters that you had in your life,” says @thedanielbruhl of his role in TNT’s “The Alienist.” The show, set in the Gilded Age of New York, also stars Dakota Fanning and Luke Evans. Head to WWD.com to read about how 39-year-old Brühl prepared for the role and why he thinks the show is so relevant to today #wwdeye ( 📷: @Eriktanner)
Now that Celine Dion’s collection has topped $10 million in sales, the pop superstar, fashion icon and newly-minted industry player is eyeing growth in Asia. Read the full report by @tiffanyap, link in bio. #wwdnews #celinedion
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
Among the familiar faces at @off____white’s show was a surprise figure: Japanese artist @takashipom, pictured here on Wednesday morning. Other show-goers included @jerrylorenzo, who spoke about his upcoming project: a @nike collaboration for back to school, with designs inspired by his childhood on the West Coast. Sitting in the front row were Future, Don Crawley, @miguel and more. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: Stephane Feugere)
According to @laurentsai, former “Terrace House: Aloha State” cast member, she didn’t know she was auditioning for the Japanese version of “Real World.” “I was telling a couple of my friends and someone’s like, ‘That sounds a lot like Terrace House.’ I was like, ’No it can’t be.’” Turns out, it was. But Tsai isn’t just a reality star — she’s an illustrator who has worked with Starbucks Japan and most recently, she’s dipping her toes into the fashion world. Head to WWD.com to read about her time on the show, modeling and her art. #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
More changes are coming to New York Fashion Week: Beginning with the spring 2019 collection, @alexanderwangny will move his New York show to June from September, adopting a biannual schedule with collections shown in June and December. Additionally, the @cfda is planning for an official summer/winter fashion season taking place as soon as June and December 2018. Read more about the upcoming changes on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @slovekinpics)