As we were putting together this, our first fragrance issue, I asked Ron Robinson, the founder of BeautyStat.com, to canvas his members and ask them what drives their fragrance purchases. While some talked about buying into the gestalt of a specific brand or celebrity and others talked about the appeal of the bottle, most of the answers centered around the emotional appeal of scent. “What makes me buy a fragrance is, of course, how it smells, but more so how it makes me feel,” said Carol H. “I feel better about myself when I smell good. I love trying new fragrances and it’s a pick-me-up, especially if I’m not having a good day,” wrote Dana K. A contributor named MJ wrote: “To me, fragrances are very evocative of specific times and places, even people. I like to get a new fragrance to embody an event or time of my life. Whenever I smell that scent, I’m transported in time to the special moment.”
No one is better at creating compelling stories around fragrance franchises than this issue’s cover subject, Coty chief executive officer Bernd Beetz. Over the past decade, he has transformed Coty into a fragrance powerhouse by creating a three-pronged strategy consisting of celebrity, designer and lifestyle brands. Now Beetz has set his sights on dominating in skin care and makeup as well, with the goal of becoming a top-five beauty company by 2015. As Molly Prior reports in “The Player” on page 38, those who know the ubercompetitive executive say he is more than up to the challenge. To those companies already in the top five, including Beetz’s friend and tennis partner, Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. chief executive officer Fabrizio Freda: Consider yourself warned!
No one knows better than Beetz the challenges of the U.S. fragrance market, but as Pete Born writes in “The Age of Ambivalence” on page 30, the picture is growing rosier. A year of strong launches has helped propel sales to almost prerecession levels. Now, the question is whether marketers can reestablish the category’s relevance with a generation of young consumers who aren’t predisposed toward wearing scent.
Holding equal amounts of promise and challenge is Brazil. On the one side, you have a fast-growing middle-class population with an inherent affinity for beauty, particularly scent. On the other, you have punishingly high duties, an underdeveloped infrastructure and retail network and an extraordinarily competitive local landscape, as I discovered while reporting “The Power Within” on page 34. Find out what the future holds for international brands eager to make inroads in this developing nation.
What is a fragrance issue without an ode to the FiFi’s? As the Fragrance Foundation’s annual awards head back to Lincoln Center on May 22, we present our first insider’s guide to the event. Curious about what some of beauty’s most stylish executives are planning on wearing? Eager to plot the easiest route for your driver? Wondering what the industry’s favorite wordsmith, Procter & Gamble’s Don Loftus, might advise when it comes to making acceptance speeches? You’ll fi nd all of that and much more starting on page 18. Just as the best fragrances aim to transport, so, too, do we with each issue of WWD Beauty Inc. Drop me a line at email@example.com and let me know how we’re doing.
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over the top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty