The book Granularity of Growth was published in 2008, but it is a concept that has become especially ubiquitous today in beauty as growth plateaus in traditional sectors. As a result, marketers are forced to create new opportunities in unexpected places, and many have done so with spectacular results—to wit, Clinique’s Even Better Clinical Dark Spot Corrector, which blasted open the brightening category in the U.S. Although the stories in this issue of WWD Beauty Inc are very diverse, they have a common thread: The retailers and categories featured are all experiencing explosive growth in a period when single-digit increases are the norm.
Take the dollar store channel of retail, which is growing at a pace faster than Starbucks, reports WWD’s contributing editor and mass-market expert, Faye Brookman. This year alone, two of the biggest players will open more than 1,000 new stores combined, and the channel is expected to continue nabbing market share (and top executive talent) from drugstores and discounters. Brookman explains what this means for beauty in “Penny Press.”
Another fast-growing and ever-evolving channel is infomercials. The direct-response television business is booming—spending increased 47 percent in 2012 and was up 38 percent in January alone this year—but as many brands are discovering, a big spend doesn’t necessarily translate into big sales. WWD’s West Coast–based beauty reporter Rachel Brown talked to the industry’s most successful practitioners to discover what it takes to win today and the foundation brands are laying for a multiplatform future. The results are in “Small Screen Dreams.”
Mass-market hair-care brands are also looking for a big win. After years of stagnant growth, the category has been energized in the past 16 months by an onslaught of launches—more than 500 new stockkeeping units alone from the industry’s biggest names. This generation of innovation has a singular goal: to transform consumer’s behavior and convince women to evolve their hair-care regimens into multistep programs that mimic skin care. “The hair-care market is undergoing a massive, long-term transition,” Unilever’s Gina Boswell told beauty financial editor Molly Prior. “Increasingly hair consumers are becoming more sophisticated and understanding that products work as a regimen of wash, care and treatment and they are willing to invest.” The early numbers bear out Boswell’s optimism. Find out how the market is expected to evolve this year in “Maximum Volume.”
There is another theme running throughout this issue: an emphasis on West Coast brands and leaders. You’ll find Benefit’s Aurelian Lis in “Master Class,” skin-care entrepreneur Ole Henriksen in “Private Lives,” and the hottest young Hollywood makeup artists and hair stylists in “Red Carpet Whiz Kids.” Although he brings a unique sensibility to the industry, Lis’ ideas about beauty are universal. “We all work in the cosmetics industry, which is inherently frivolous by nature, but it makes a big impact on people’s lives,” he says. “It is an awesome job. And very motivating.” I couldn’t agree more.
5 Key Points From This Issue
1. TUNE IN: The infomerical channel is growing and becoming increasingly integrated with other platforms.
2. REGIMEN CHANGE: Hair-care marketers are trying to grow the pie by transforming women’s habits.
3. VALUE ADDED: Dollar stores are booming, proliferating even faster than Starbucks.
4. GOOD TIMES: Why making people laugh is good for sales.
5. POP TOPS: Bright colors are all the rage for spring.
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)
The @cfda has shifted the dates of #NYFW, with Men’s showing on February 5 through February 7, and Women’s will directly follow, running from February 8 through 14. The preliminary schedule will be released on the CFDA’s web site in the next few days, but Mark Beckham, VP of marketing for the CFDA, revealed that @rafsimons will be back to close the men’s-specific part of the week with a show on February 7 #wwdfashion (📷: Kelly Taub)
@ferragamo is introducing a new space dedicated to the development of women’s and men’s leather good samples. The laboratory, which is created eco-friendly materials and designed to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturing processes, will allow the company to expand its accessories offering through traditional artisanal approaches. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
How does a “regular, degular, schmegular” girl from the Bronx, N.Y., become a Grammy-nominated artist with a certified platinum record in less than a year? Call it the @iamcardib come up. The 25-year-old has become a musical sensation, and the fashion world is taking note. “If I could describe her style I would say drama. She’s really into the dramatics,” says Cardi B’s stylist @kollincarter. See how Carter styles her bold and out there looks with the link in bio. #wwdfashion
“There is no formula. There is no guideline. I can watch Ted Talks all day, but there is no one who can advise me on exactly what it is I should be doing,” said @ronniefieg, CEO of @kith, in an interview with WWD’s @ariahughes at the brand’s new SoHo office in Manhattan. Head to WWD.com to see how Fieg went from hanging out in shoe stockrooms at 13 to building his own business. #wwdfashion (📷: @weston.wells)
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion