Mascara has always been the magic wand for Maybelline New York, but recently, the brand has proven itself extraordinarily adept at achieving success in a host of key categories. The number-one makeup brand in the world, with global retail sales of $3.8 billion according to Euromonitor, Maybelline has solidified its leadership in the eye category, all while building its face, lip and, now, nail businesses. Big? Yes. Safe? Most decidedly not—making the brand the ideal choice to feature in this, our second Power issue of WWD Beauty Inc. Led by two dynamic executives—Damien Bertrand, the global brand president, and David Greenberg, the U.S. president who also oversees the Garnier and Essie businesses—the L’Oréal-owned behemoth is positioning itself as a trendsetting leader intent on bringing the latest in makeup from the catwalk to the sidewalk. As Pete Born writes in “Master Minds,” “All of that energy has electrified the brand.”
The six innovators in “The Aha Moment” understand how to generate power, as well. Each is the brains behind an iconic beauty creation, something that not only became a perennial bestseller, but which spawned an entirely new category of products, to boot. I wanted to discover the genesis of such items as Frizz-Ease, Night Repair and Touche Éclat, among others, so I went straight to the creators to find out. I think you’ll agree that their stories are as amazing as they are inspirational, and their insights especially relevant today.
No doubt that the mass skin care market could use an inspiring hit of innovation to jolt it out of the doldrums. While sales in prestige treatment soared last year, up 14 percent, the mass market lagged behind with only 3 percent growth. WWD’s beauty financial editor Molly Prior spoke to marketers, retailers and some industry analysts to get their prescription for fixing the ails of this essential category.
Gina Boswell, the executive vice president of personal care at Unilever, is certainly doing her part to reenergize the mass skin care business with one of the biggest launches of the year: Simple, the number-one skin care line in the U.K. based on unit sales, launched in the U.S. in January, and looks to do for sensitive skin what Clinique’s Even Better Clinical Skin Tone Corrector has done for dark spots. In “Master Class,” Boswell describes the strategy behind the launch as part of an in-depth look at her professional assessment of the beauty industry and her personal management style. An experienced executive who has worked at Estée Lauder, Avon and Alberto Culver since graduating from Yale, Boswell has a fascinating perspective on what will drive the industry’s growth going forward. As we prepare for the upcoming WWD Beauty CEO Summit in May, I’d love to hear what you think the industry most needs to pay attention to in the year ahead. E-mail me at email@example.com and let me know.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast