Mascara has always been the magic wand for Maybelline New York, but recently, the brand has proven itself extraordinarily adept at achieving success in a host of key categories. The number-one makeup brand in the world, with global retail sales of $3.8 billion according to Euromonitor, Maybelline has solidified its leadership in the eye category, all while building its face, lip and, now, nail businesses. Big? Yes. Safe? Most decidedly not—making the brand the ideal choice to feature in this, our second Power issue of WWD Beauty Inc. Led by two dynamic executives—Damien Bertrand, the global brand president, and David Greenberg, the U.S. president who also oversees the Garnier and Essie businesses—the L’Oréal-owned behemoth is positioning itself as a trendsetting leader intent on bringing the latest in makeup from the catwalk to the sidewalk. As Pete Born writes in “Master Minds,” “All of that energy has electrified the brand.”
The six innovators in “The Aha Moment” understand how to generate power, as well. Each is the brains behind an iconic beauty creation, something that not only became a perennial bestseller, but which spawned an entirely new category of products, to boot. I wanted to discover the genesis of such items as Frizz-Ease, Night Repair and Touche Éclat, among others, so I went straight to the creators to find out. I think you’ll agree that their stories are as amazing as they are inspirational, and their insights especially relevant today.
No doubt that the mass skin care market could use an inspiring hit of innovation to jolt it out of the doldrums. While sales in prestige treatment soared last year, up 14 percent, the mass market lagged behind with only 3 percent growth. WWD’s beauty financial editor Molly Prior spoke to marketers, retailers and some industry analysts to get their prescription for fixing the ails of this essential category.
Gina Boswell, the executive vice president of personal care at Unilever, is certainly doing her part to reenergize the mass skin care business with one of the biggest launches of the year: Simple, the number-one skin care line in the U.K. based on unit sales, launched in the U.S. in January, and looks to do for sensitive skin what Clinique’s Even Better Clinical Skin Tone Corrector has done for dark spots. In “Master Class,” Boswell describes the strategy behind the launch as part of an in-depth look at her professional assessment of the beauty industry and her personal management style. An experienced executive who has worked at Estée Lauder, Avon and Alberto Culver since graduating from Yale, Boswell has a fascinating perspective on what will drive the industry’s growth going forward. As we prepare for the upcoming WWD Beauty CEO Summit in May, I’d love to hear what you think the industry most needs to pay attention to in the year ahead. E-mail me at email@example.com and let me know.
Taking the final spot on the mens’ portion of New York Fashion Week calendar next month will be none other than @tomford. Though he’s shown his men’s wear in New York in the past, this will mark the first time the designer has shown his men’s collection alone during New York Fashion Week: Men’s. His runway show will debut on February 6 at the Park Avenue Armory. #wwdfashion
London-based couture house @ralphandrusso has certainly been in the spotlight, having its dresses worn by @beyonce, Angelina Jolie, Meghan Markle in her engagement photos and more. For couture, Tamara Ralph focused on ornamentation — think: feathers with chain mail, jet embroidery and clusters of pearls and crystals. See the rest of the collection on WWD.com #wwdfashion #couture (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
Minnie Mouse celebrated her 90th birthday by getting her own star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame. For her celebratory luncheon, @coach’s creative director @stuartvevers dressed her in a custom made prairie dress, complete with Vever’s take on the polka dot – black sequined versions – under a cropped motorcycle jacket. The designer also put his own mark on Minnie’s classic red shoes, infusing the color with sparkles and adding some Coach crystals. “We chose colors that were very Minnie and also represented quintessential Coach elements,” said Vevers. #wwdfashion #nationalpolkadotday (📷: George Chinsee)
@nickjonas is unveiling his first-ever apparel collection through a partnership with John Varvatos. The limited-edition capsule, which makes its debut in spring, also marks the first time the designer has collaborated with anyone on a line. “The process in working with Nick is amazing. It’s inspiring to be around someone who is not only connected with the trade that they do, but also with what’s happening in the environment around him, and how that connects to what we do with style,” said Varvatos. (RG: @johnvarvatos) #wwdfashion
@margotrobbie steps out onto the red carpet wearing @miumiu. The actress is nominated for “Outstanding Performance by a Female Actor in a Leading Role” in “I, Tonya” at the #SagAwards. (📷: Stewart Cook) #wwdfashion
For @massimogiorgetti of @msgm, the Nineties are his favorite decade. “They had a huge impact on my personal growth. What I like of the Nineties is that they are not so precise in terms of style as other decades…there was actually a bit of everything,” he said. As seen on MSGM’s Spring 2018 show: tie-dye and a bit of grunge, two styles that are synonymous with the decade #wwdfashion #wwddecades (📷: @kukukuba)