Outside of Terry J. Lundgren’s cavernous office 13 floors above the hustle and bustle of Macy’s Herald Square flagship is nailed a silver-framed plaque with the words “Chief Customer Officer.” What could come across as a little corny is actually a daily reminder for Lundgren—whose official title is chairman, chief executive officer and president of Macy’s Inc.—of his commitment to continually improving Macy’s shopping experience as well as its bottom line. It’s a broad-sweeping vision, but Lundgren is used to painting with bold strokes. In 2005, he acquired longtime competitor May Department Stores Co. for approximately $17.3 billion. Today, Macy’s is the solid number-one retailer in terms of U.S. prestige beauty sales, and Lundgren and his executives are hard at work at bringing the buzz (and a younger customer base) back to its stores. The team recently sat down with WWD Beauty Inc’s Pete Born and Molly Prior to reveal the multipronged strategy. Read about it in “Harnessing the Might of Macy’s” on page 26.
With estimated sales of over $1 billion (versus Macy’s $23 billion-plus), flash- sale Web sites are still but a tiny piece of the retail pie. Their growth over the last four years has been supersonic, however, attracting an affluent membership base and the brands that love them. The format—in which desirable goods are sold at a discount for a limited period of time, usually 36 to 48 hours—has proved problematic for beauty, a category in which discounts are akin to heresy. In “Instant Gratification?” on page 32, I spoke to the leading sites as well as myriad industry execs for insight on how the channel might evolve for beauty.
Those who know me know I love to shop—even vicariously. I’ve also heard from numerous readers that you’re eager to see and be inspired by emerging retail concepts. So I put a call out to our reporters worldwide asking about the latest and greatest stores in their neck of the woods. I think you’ll be as engaged as I was by what came back. In East London, I learned about an appointment-only hipster emporium that has everything from avant-garde designers to a nightclub. In Paris, a members-only concept allows visitors to test a variety of products, provide feedback to brands and be incentivized with coupons they can redeem in stores, while in Las Vegas, the proprietors of a luxe Dutch beauty boutique have opened their first U.S. outpost with a fantastic array of brands and a killer sense of design. Visit these stores and more in “Retail Road Show” on page 36.
Elsewhere in this issue—devoted to all things retail, in case you couldn’t tell—is an in-depth interview with Ornella Barra of Alliance Boots. A pharmacist by training, Barra is the engineer of Boots’ stellar international growth and also oversees its fast-growing beauty products division. Her interview is in “Master Class” on page 10. In Consumer Chronicles, starting on page 22, we’ve rounded up best-selling mascaras from around the world, compiled a list of the fastest-growing specialty stores and hit the streets of Philadelphia to find out what’s selling there—and why. I hope you enjoy this retail tour as much as we enjoyed putting it together. Drop me a line at jenny_fine@ condenast.com and let me know.
“What he has done at Vuitton is really exceptional,” said @gameofthrones’ actress Gwendoline Christie on @mrkimjones’ final show for @louisvuitton. “He has rebooted luxury in terms of making it commercial, viable and contemporary. And most importantly artistic. He has never compromised his artistic vision for the sake of commodity.” (📷: @zefashioninsider)
After seeing a demand for men’s wear from its customers, British contemporary women’s wear label @ariesarise has added a men’s wear component and will launch a unisex collection with @mrporterlive. The 20-piece collection includes jackets, denim, logo T-shirts and more with deconstructed ‘90s vibes. Set to launch on January 18, you can shop the pieces on Aries’ website and on mrporter.com. #wwdfashion
“And so spending so much time with a character who thinks like that, inevitability you try and analyze yourself and go back and think about your own demons and dark chapters that you had in your life,” says @thedanielbruhl of his role in TNT’s “The Alienist.” The show, set in the Gilded Age of New York, also stars Dakota Fanning and Luke Evans. Head to WWD.com to read about how 39-year-old Brühl prepared for the role and why he thinks the show is so relevant to today #wwdeye ( 📷: @Eriktanner)
Now that Celine Dion’s collection has topped $10 million in sales, the pop superstar, fashion icon and newly-minted industry player is eyeing growth in Asia. Read the full report by @tiffanyap, link in bio. #wwdnews #celinedion
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
Among the familiar faces at @off____white’s show was a surprise figure: Japanese artist @takashipom, pictured here on Wednesday morning. Other show-goers included @jerrylorenzo, who spoke about his upcoming project: a @nike collaboration for back to school, with designs inspired by his childhood on the West Coast. Sitting in the front row were Future, Don Crawley, @miguel and more. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: Stephane Feugere)
According to @laurentsai, former “Terrace House: Aloha State” cast member, she didn’t know she was auditioning for the Japanese version of “Real World.” “I was telling a couple of my friends and someone’s like, ‘That sounds a lot like Terrace House.’ I was like, ’No it can’t be.’” Turns out, it was. But Tsai isn’t just a reality star — she’s an illustrator who has worked with Starbucks Japan and most recently, she’s dipping her toes into the fashion world. Head to WWD.com to read about her time on the show, modeling and her art. #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
More changes are coming to New York Fashion Week: Beginning with the spring 2019 collection, @alexanderwangny will move his New York show to June from September, adopting a biannual schedule with collections shown in June and December. Additionally, the @cfda is planning for an official summer/winter fashion season taking place as soon as June and December 2018. Read more about the upcoming changes on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @slovekinpics)