To borrow a line from the incomparable Frank Sinatra, 2011 was a very good year for beauty companies. For proof, look no further than the WWD Beauty Inc Top 100, our annual global ranking of the world’s biggest beauty manufacturers compiled by our indefatigable European beauty editor, Jennifer Weil. This year’s companies weigh in at a whopping $195.36 billion, a 10.6 percent increase over last year’s total. In all, 84 companies increased their sales and 38 posted double-digit growth. Of the 13 registering declines, six were from Japan, where consumer confidence remains low due to an anemic economy and the aftereffects of last year’s disastrous earthquake and tsunami. But the news was largely positive, as you’ll see in “Beauty’s Top 100.” Those who are long-time readers of WWD Beauty Inc will notice some changes to this year’s edition. In addition to the in-depth quantitative assessment of the industry, we’ve added more qualitative analysis as well. Let me know how you like the changes at firstname.lastname@example.org.
In 2011, the fourth-ranked Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. posted the largest sales increase of any company in the top 10, with a 13.9 percent gain to estimated sales of $9.44 billion. A stellar performance in North America and a blistering travel-retail market contributed to those gains, as did the results posted by Origins. The brand struggled in the early 2000s, losing its focus on skin care and floundering amidst increased competition in the naturals category. In 2008, Jane Lauder took control of Origins and revived it, creating a performance-based brand platform that has successfully resonated with consumers today. The granddaughter of company founder Estée and daughter of Ronald and Jo Carole, Lauder has shown during her steady rise at the company that the clan’s fabled business acumen definitely runs in the family. Her latest challenge, as global president and general manager of Origins and Ojon, is to sustain the pace of growth at Origins as she simultaneously builds a nascent prestige hair-care category for Ojon. As you’ll discover in “The Natural,” those who know her well have no doubt that she will achieve both goals. “She is the ultimate professional—super committed and dedicated, a woman with a mission,” Rose Marie Bravo told me. “She is determined to make her mark.”
Nicolas Mirzayantz has also made a significant mark as group president at IFF, where he oversees the company’s $1.4 billion fragrance business. Mirzayantz is the ultimate right brain–left brain executive, combining an inherent creativity and sense of curiosity with a sharp analytical mind that understands that return on investment can take many different forms. As you’ll see in “Where Analysis Meets Innovation,” he is passionate about bringing forth the innovation that will drive the future growth of the industry. And for all the manufacturers who are included in this year’s Beauty’s Top 100 and those who aspire to make the list, it’s a point on which the entire industry can agree.
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of @ralphlauren’s snowboarding collection, the brand is mining its archives. The iconic brand is reintroducing vintage styles and dropping new designs for a color capsule that will be available in Ralph Lauren stores and @openingceremony on January 25. The capsule will consist of 10 pieces, including the Snow Beach Pullover, pictured here, which is a collector’s item that rapper Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang Clan’s “Can It Be All So Simple” video. #wwdfashion (📷: Tom Gould)
For @rochasofficial’s pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua channeled the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Denevue in the film “Belle de Jour.” Polished collarless coats, midi skirts, suits and ’60s graphic motifs were all featured in the collection, adding a sense of discreet luxury. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion
“We tried to produce clothing of that couture quality, but the most daunting part was that we only had a matter of days [to do it],” said costume designer Lou Eyrich, who recreated Gianni Versace’s iconic looks for @americancrimestoryfx. Eyrich searched online retailers and vintage shops for original pieces from the design house and for @penelopecruzoficial, who plays Donatella Versace. Head to WWD.com to read how she created the Versace world. #wwdfashion
Only three months after her stellar debut catwalk season, @kaiagerber has inked her first big design collaboration –– with @karllagerfeld. The collection blends Lagerfeld’s Parisian chic aesthetic and the model’s signature West Coast casual style via RTW, accessories, footwear and more. The #KarlLagerfeldxKaia collection will launch in September with a series of events. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews