In the past six months alone, WWD Beauty Inc has published wonderfully compelling stories on Brazil’s booming direct-sell business, the evolution of the Indian fragrance market, Sephora’s aggressive expansion into China and Southeast Asia and the global worldviews of some of beauty’s most powerful chief executives. But when we stopped to take stock, we realized that much of the uncertainty roiling the industry is happening in our own backyard: The U.S. The first half of the year has certainly presented a mixed bag: Prestige beauty sales shot up just as the consumer confidence index was heading towards a 30-year low; retail stock prices surged, but the unemployment rate stubbornly hovered at 9 percent. The contradictions aroused our curiosity, and the result is this, an issue entirely devoted to America.
We started by asking questions: Who’s shopping today? Why? What is she looking for in terms of beauty products and experiences? And how did the recession permanently alter her consumption patterns, overall and with beauty specifically. As you’ll see in “The Anxiety Gap,” the results are fascinating. One fact that became abundantly clear is that the affluent are clearly driving sales; the concept of the upper middle class has all but disappeared and the middle class itself remains wary about discretionary spending. “The recession is over, but the behavior people have learned is not,” retail analyst Wendy Liebmann told me during the course of my interviews. Discover what the permanent changes are, and how they will impact your business.
The nail category has not only not been hard hit during the recession, it has positively thrived. Prestige nail sales soared 58 percent in the first half of this year alone. As Rachel Brown reports in “Hand Power,” women have turned to nail as an affordable indulgence, and the trend shows no signs of slowing down. Gain insight on how the category is expected to evolve, and the hottest products driving growth.
When it comes to influencing what women buy, few have a voice as powerful as the beauty editor. While social media and the rise of bloggers have certainly added to the chorus of credible advisors, a group of forward-looking editors have retrenched and created new ways to dimensionalize the pages of their publications, both online and offline. As you’ll learn in “Messenger Center,” what was once a month-by-month communication with readers has now become minute by minute—and even extended to the retail counter. “ People call it new media and social media, but to me, it’s media,” says Teen Vogue’s beauty director Eva Chen. “It’s different layers and everything has to serve its purpose.” Chen’s statement reflects not only the new democratic approach to the the dissemination of information, it’s a also a perfect summation of how we live and shop in America today. Let me know what you think at email@example.com.
There'll be no rest for those headed to Europe for men's, as Paris just closed the gap with Milan. According to a provisional calendar released by the Chambre Syndicale, Paris Men's Week will now open a day earlier on January 16. See new highlights on the official lineup on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
BREAKING: Jonathan Saunders is leaving @DVF. The designer has resigned from his position as chief creative officer of Diane von Furstenberg, the company said in a statement on Friday. At the time of his hire, von Furstenberg said Saunders’ arrival symbolized and facilitated her stepping back from the day-to-day duties that occupy the work of a full-time creative director. The British designer joined DVF in May 2016 and was in charge of all product categories. #wwdnews
For @versace_official’s spring ad campaign, the brand emphasized the archival prints from the spring tribute collection dedicated to the late Gianni Versace. Closing out the show were five of Gianni’s favorite models: Cindy, Naomi, Carla, Helena, and Claudia. Bowing on December 18, the new campaign is yet another tribute to supermodel-dom as the images by Steven Meisel are fronted by @iamnaomicampbell, @cturlington, @gisele and more. #wwdfashion
Four-time Oscar-nominated actress Annette Bening has been waiting 20 years to play Gloria Graham in "Film Stars Don't Die in Liverpool," which will be released on December 29. The movie about Graham – a Hollywood star known for her controversial relationship with a younger Englishman named Peter Turner – is based off a memoir Turned wrote. "She felt vulnerable to him, because she loved him, she really did love him. And anyone that we really truly are in love with, we re vulnerable to in a very deep way," said Bening. Read our full interview with the modern icon of an actress on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @ninebagatelles; Styled by @cristinaehrlich)
The crisp white button down: a staple that can be dressed up or down and accessorized throughout the decades. Here, on a Art Basel-goer in 2017 on the left and on the iconic Audrey Hepburn in “Roman Holiday” in 1953 on the right. #tbt #wwdfashion (📷: Andrew Morales)
Known for her work with @victoriassecret, 25-year-old model @georgiafowler is raising her profile in Hollywood. Fowler stars in @vincecamuto’s holiday campaign, which launched in partnership with “Pitch Perfect 3.” “Almost every shoot with Vince Camuto, I’ve had to face a fear…It was definitely a challenge. I’m so grateful for it, though. I’ve always wanted to be a pop star, so that was the perfect chance,” Fowler said. Head to WWD.com to read about Fowler’s experience modeling, including at the #VSFashionShow, and her relationship with Nick Jonas. #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
EXCLUSIVE: Huda Kattan just became the first beauty influencer to land a major beauty deal. Kattan's business, @hudabeauty, has received a minority investment from private equity firm TSG Consumer Partners. The brand, which industry sources say is on track to do $200 million in retail sales for 2017, will receive support on product, retail and geographic expansion through the deal. Get all the details on the deal and read @_a_collins' interview with Kattan on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdbeauty #wwdnews
Peruvian model @juanaburga_official – who is known for walking the runways of @rodarte, @viviennewestwood and @torybuch – is making the move to the big screen with drama “Los Últimos.” The film premiered in Argentina in November and arrives in the U.S. and Europe in 2018. On making the switch from modeling to acting, Burga told WWD: “It’s a completely different thing – a lot of people think it’s similar or try to connect things, especially like getting used to the camera or being looked at all the time or playing these different characrers, but film is a completely different story.” #wwdeye (📷: @jgreenery)
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)