Fashion shows are, by nature, a celebration of unfettered creativity mixed in with a dash of commercial viability. But the spring 2009 season was different—the global economy was in free fall during the collections, imparting the proceedings with an air of surreality. As we were putting together this issue, our annual look at the interconnection between the fashion and beauty worlds, we asked, how relevant is high fashion when a financial tsunami is washing away much of the world’s wealth? And what role beauty, a category conventional wisdom considers recession proof?
Whether it remains so is a different matter, but the world’s top hairstylists and makeup artists are certainly doing their part to help boost the industry. At many shows, rather than being constrained creatively by the dire goings-on, they unleashed their imaginations in a riot of color, shape and texture, resulting in a season full of strong hair and makeup trends. We’ve collated the most directional runway looks from the New York, London, Milan and Paris collections into “The Beauty Report,” followed by a roundup of the 14 most influential artists who are largely responsible for originating them in “The Creative Coalition.”
Another very small but powerful group that has an oversize impact on the prevailing notions of beauty are fashion photographers. In “Hot Shots,” Molly Prior peels back the curtains on this insular world, with a look at who the most influential photographers are, how the world of high-stakes editorial and advertising shoots works and what the perks of power are (to wit: a day rate of between $70,000 to $130,000 is not uncommon).
Though each of the top photographers has a different style, one thing they no doubt share in common is the desire to get WWD Beauty Biz cover model Coco Rocha in front of their cameras. As Rocha says in “Coco in Motion:" “Don’t book me if you want plain Jane!” Her oversize personality—this is a woman known to dance down the runway—has won her kudos from both the fashion and beauty worlds, placing her firmly in an elite group of models who deliver bankable results. And, as the economy’s tumultuous times continue, we could all use a sure bet.
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty