We’ve dubbed Ronald O. Perelman beauty’s most elusive mogul, because for the past 27 years, the number of times that he’s consented to sit for a wide-ranging, on-the-record interview can be counted on a single hand. But what was really significant about Perelman’s presence on Thursday, April 5, when he sat down with WWD’s executive editor of beauty, Pete Born, for an hour-long exclusive talk, wasn’t that he was there—it’s what he was wearing.
Perelman sported a white shirt, navy sweater and denim jeans by J. Crew and a jacket by Brunello Cucinelli, the luxe Italian sportswear manufacturer whose clothing costs in the thousands. That high-low mix perfectly encompasses Perelman’s vision for Revlon, the storied American mass market cosmetics company that has had its shares of ups and downs since Perelman acquired it in 1985. Revlon is currently up, coming off a 4.5 percent sales increase for 2011, and led by a dynamic management team who seem to have the chairman’s full confidence. Their mission now is to transform the brand into one that epitomizes affordable luxury, so that a woman would feel proud to pull a Revlon lipstick out of her Hermès bag—much the same way that Perelman himself effortlessly combines J. Crew and Cucinelli. For more on Perelman’s strategy for Revlon, his assessment of the current state of the cosmetics industry and why his life as a high-profile New York billionaire isn’t nearly as glamorous as the tabloids make out, turn to “Ronald Perelman’s Vision Quest.”
Ronald Perelman has never been one to shrink from big ideas, and the people who I spoke to for “From Hi to Buy” are likewise bold thinkers. Take Joseph Einhorn, the entrepreneur behind TheFancy.com, who hopes to make Amazon ancient history. Pioneers in the area of social commerce, Einhorn and his cohorts are on the cutting edge of harnessing the incredible power of social media to tap the unlimited opportunity of e-commerce. Discover how some leading brands and technology experts expect the field to evolve.
Although the four industry legends in “Leaders of the Pack” are retired from active beauty duty, they would doubtless be among the first to explore the emerging area of social commerce. Guy Peyrelongue, Jeanette Wagner, Robert Mettler and Arie Kopelman each helped shape a different aspect of the modern beauty industry, but what comes through when speaking to each is their intense curiosity, creativity, work ethic and overall sheer enjoyment of helping people achieve tough goals. As the industry’s current leaders gather for the 2012 WWD Beauty CEO Summit, we spoke to these past leaders to get some perspective on the future. I hope you’ll find their remarks as fascinating as I do. E-mail me at jenny_fine@ fairchildfashion.com and let me know where you think our industry is headed. Key Points From This Issue
1. Revlon Rising. Ronald Perelman’s goal is to make Revlon the J. Crew of the beauty industry.
2. The World Is Flat. Beauty’s most respected leaders agree: The closer management is to the creative and research teams, the better.
3. Unlock the Box. Renato Semerari on why mass retailers need to radically rethink fragrance merchandising.
4. Money Matters. Prestige sales were up in 2011 and CEO salaries followed suit. A look at the numbers.
5. The Golden Glow of Success. Look for a wave of innovation to help drive sales of bronzers and self-tanners.
There'll be no rest for those headed to Europe for men's, as Paris just closed the gap with Milan. According to a provisional calendar released by the Chambre Syndicale, Paris Men's Week will now open a day earlier on January 16. See new highlights on the official lineup on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
BREAKING: Jonathan Saunders is leaving @DVF. The designer has resigned from his position as chief creative officer of Diane von Furstenberg, the company said in a statement on Friday. At the time of his hire, von Furstenberg said Saunders’ arrival symbolized and facilitated her stepping back from the day-to-day duties that occupy the work of a full-time creative director. The British designer joined DVF in May 2016 and was in charge of all product categories. #wwdnews
For @versace_official’s spring ad campaign, the brand emphasized the archival prints from the spring tribute collection dedicated to the late Gianni Versace. Closing out the show were five of Gianni’s favorite models: Cindy, Naomi, Carla, Helena, and Claudia. Bowing on December 18, the new campaign is yet another tribute to supermodel-dom as the images by Steven Meisel are fronted by @iamnaomicampbell, @cturlington, @gisele and more. #wwdfashion
Four-time Oscar-nominated actress Annette Bening has been waiting 20 years to play Gloria Graham in "Film Stars Don't Die in Liverpool," which will be released on December 29. The movie about Graham – a Hollywood star known for her controversial relationship with a younger Englishman named Peter Turner – is based off a memoir Turned wrote. "She felt vulnerable to him, because she loved him, she really did love him. And anyone that we really truly are in love with, we re vulnerable to in a very deep way," said Bening. Read our full interview with the modern icon of an actress on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @ninebagatelles; Styled by @cristinaehrlich)
The crisp white button down: a staple that can be dressed up or down and accessorized throughout the decades. Here, on a Art Basel-goer in 2017 on the left and on the iconic Audrey Hepburn in “Roman Holiday” in 1953 on the right. #tbt #wwdfashion (📷: Andrew Morales)
Known for her work with @victoriassecret, 25-year-old model @georgiafowler is raising her profile in Hollywood. Fowler stars in @vincecamuto’s holiday campaign, which launched in partnership with “Pitch Perfect 3.” “Almost every shoot with Vince Camuto, I’ve had to face a fear…It was definitely a challenge. I’m so grateful for it, though. I’ve always wanted to be a pop star, so that was the perfect chance,” Fowler said. Head to WWD.com to read about Fowler’s experience modeling, including at the #VSFashionShow, and her relationship with Nick Jonas. #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
EXCLUSIVE: Huda Kattan just became the first beauty influencer to land a major beauty deal. Kattan's business, @hudabeauty, has received a minority investment from private equity firm TSG Consumer Partners. The brand, which industry sources say is on track to do $200 million in retail sales for 2017, will receive support on product, retail and geographic expansion through the deal. Get all the details on the deal and read @_a_collins' interview with Kattan on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdbeauty #wwdnews
Peruvian model @juanaburga_official – who is known for walking the runways of @rodarte, @viviennewestwood and @torybuch – is making the move to the big screen with drama “Los Últimos.” The film premiered in Argentina in November and arrives in the U.S. and Europe in 2018. On making the switch from modeling to acting, Burga told WWD: “It’s a completely different thing – a lot of people think it’s similar or try to connect things, especially like getting used to the camera or being looked at all the time or playing these different characrers, but film is a completely different story.” #wwdeye (📷: @jgreenery)
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)