Last year, beauty sales in the food, drug and mass channel gained just 3 percent to $21.2 billion, according to Symphony IRI Group. At Target, however, the picture was markedly rosier. There, beauty outpaced the market, with some categories, like color cosmetics, doubling the gains of the overall market. Target’s success in makeup is notable, because the business model it created for the category—driven by newness, innovation and an influx of exclusive and upscale brands—is one it hopes to replicate as the retailer looks to rejuvenate its skin-care business and gobble up market share across all categories. Recently, WWD’s executive editor of beauty, Pete Born, flew out to Chicago to tour one of Target’s marquee beauty stores with José Barra, the retailer’s senior vice president, merchandising, of health and beauty. From sales associates, called concierges, to Spanish-language signage, Born found that the future is definitely not big- box business as usual. “We have pushed,” Barra says. “We are a company that’s going to take risks and we’re going to push the boundaries to the extent that we can.” Find out how in “The Value of Innovation.”
Amazon is no stranger to pushing boundaries, as those in businesses such as books, music and electronics can no doubt attest. Now, the e-commerce giant has turned its sights to beauty—for better or for worse. Yes, the Internet is retail’s fastest growing channel and Amazon’s number of active customers is a staggering 188 million. But the numbers aren’t enough to sway many brands, especially the established luxe lines that Amazon covets most, as I discovered when reporting “Ready or Not.” The implications for our industry are enormous, and the issues raised many.
Doubtless Jean-Jacques Lebel is keeping close tabs on Amazon’s progress. As the vice president and managing director of L’Oréal’s consumer products division, Lebel oversees the biggest branch of the world’s largest beauty company, the division spearheading the audacious corporate goal of attracting one billion new consumers worldwide. Jennifer Weil, our European beauty editor, recently sat down for a wide-ranging talk with the executive to find out how he plans to do just that. You can read about his strategy in “Man of the World.”
This marks WWD Beauty Inc’s third annual retail issue, and once again, we’ve combed the world to bring you the most innovative new retail formats that have opened in the past year. While the stores that are featured this year range from a boutique that reinvents how tea is sold to an eco-centric café-cum- clothing boutique, a common theme does emerge: The newest stores are as much about community as they are about commerce. Take a tour in “The Age of Experience.” I’d love to hear your views on the many emerging formats most impacting beauty—online or off. E-mail me at jenny_fine@ fairchildfashion.com.
6 Key Points From This Issue
1. U.S.A.!: Prestige sales will stay strong in North America for the foreseeable future, despite economic uncertainty.
2. BIG-BOX MOXIE: Target’s emphasis on newness and innovation is unwavering as it looks to gain market share.
3. THE AMAZON EFFECT: As the e-commerce giant sets its sights on beauty, brands big and small are grappling with the right approach.
4. ALL TOGETHER NOW: Community combines with commerce in the coolest new stores.
5. BACK IN BLACK: Strong, graphic eyes rimmed in inky black liner were all the rage at the New York fall collections.
6. WORLD VIEW: From men’s skin care in Asia to nails in the U.S., targeted categories will be key to global growth.
Supermodel @helenachristensen teamed up with longtime friend and designer @camillastaerk on a joint @paredeyewear collaboration. The lineup features three styles and 11 offerings, all of which embody a vintage feel. Get all the details on how they celebrated the collab on WWD.com. #wwdaccessories #wwdeye (📷: @slovekinpics)
“It’s a hard industry to keep motivated, as well, so finding different subjects and people is what makes it worth it – when you’re like, oh, I’ve met great people, I feel like I’ve done something good, and I feel proud of having done this,” said French actress Stacy Martin on being grateful for the variety of roles she’s take on. Read @ktauer’s full interview with Martin on her her latest film “Godard Mon Amour.” #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
After showing in front of the Eiffel Tower for his last two women’s ready-to-wear collection, it looks like @anthonyvaccarello may be heading to the Big Apple. Sources say the designer will stage his next @ysl show in NYC on June 6. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
EXCLUSIVE: Two and half months after John Targon, cofounder and codesigner of Baja East, was hired as creative director of the contemporary division at Marc Jacobs, he has left the company, WWD has learned. Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed Targon’s departure in a statement: “John Targon is a talented designer and we appreciate the work he has done here. Ultimately working together did not make sense for the brand and we wish him the best.” Read the story by @jessiredale, link in bio. #wwdnews
@theluxurycollection is officially launching a collection, tapping Sofia Sanchez de Betak for the capsule. Over 30 styles will be featured in the Chufy x The Luxury Collection, debuting next month at Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster, FiveStory and more. De Betak, known as “@chufy,” drew inspiration for the collection from her trips to Japan in the past year #wwdfashion
@lhd, founder and CEO of @thewebster, has teamed up with @lebonmarcherivegauche for the European launch of her ready-to-wear line, LHD. The launch will come with an exclusive pop-up opening today that’s set to run through May 20. Located on the second floor, it carries her debut Miami-themed resort collection, launched in November as see-now-buy-now. #wwdfashion